Friction Hitch Research
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research on prusiks and other friction hitches found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
Published Research:
Unpublished Research:
Videos of Testing:
Load Releasing Hitches:
Friction Hitch Descriptions:
Load Releasing Hitch Descriptions:
Also of Interest:
Published Research:
- Antonini, Giuseppe, Piazza, Oskar, 2013, Machard e treccia: nodi o dissipatori? il Soccorso Alpino, February 2013:9-11 (Document in Italian, pull tests of two friction hitches)
- Baldwin, Jack, 1967, Equipment Testing, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1967:2-6
- Born, Russ, 2000, Still in Search of a Reliable Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Single Prusiks, Double Prusiks)
- Dill, John, 1991, Are You Really On Belay? Part I, Nylon Highway 32:1-4 (Reprinted from Response Magazine, Summer 1990) (Tied off rope, Munter Hitch, Sticht Plate, CMI Rescue Belay, Figure 8, Antz, Gibbs Ascender, Rescucender)
- Dill, John, 1991, Are you Really on Belay? Part II, Nylon Highway 32:18-22 (Reprinted from Response Magazine, Fall 1990) (Single Prusiks, Tandem Prusiks)
- Evans, Thomas, 2014, Empirical Breaking Strengths of Single Prusiks in Four Diameters on 11mm Static Rope, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014 (Also in the ITRS Archive)
- Evans, Thomas, 2015, Response of Some 3:1 Haul Systems to Excessive Loading, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015 (Also posted on the ITRS archive page)
- Everhart, John, 2008, Rescue Belay Function Testing, Presented at the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2008 (results not archived on the ITRS web page, only the abstract is available)
- Frank, J.A., 1998. CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Third Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara, California (Appendix E, p. 194-195)
- Gibbs, Mike 2005, Daisy Chains and Other Lanyards: Some Shocking Results when Shock Loaded, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Reprinted in: Gibbs, Mike, 2008, Daisy Chains and Other Lanyards: Some Shocking Results when Shock Loaded, Nylon Highway 53:40 pages) (Purcell prusiks)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2006, Lanyards Part II: An Examination of Purcell Prusiks as Personal Restraint Lanyards, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2006 (Reprinted in: Gibbs, Mike, 2008, Lanyards Part II: An Examination of Purcell Prusiks as Personal Restraint Lanyards, Nylon Highway 53:18 pages)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2007, Rescue Belays: Important Considerations for Long Lowers, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007
- Gibbs, Mike, 2014, High-modulus aramid fiber friction hitches in technical rope rescue systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014
- Goulet, Michel, 2001, Take the Load Off Highlines!, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001
- Hellberg, Florian, Funk, Felix, Schwiersch, Martin, 2013, Auf Die Finger Geschaut, Kletterhallenstudie 2012, Panorama 2013(2):66-69 (Document in German)
- Holden, Tim, May, Bill, Farnham, Rich, 2009, On the Utility of Rescue Randy Mannequins in Rescue Systems Drop Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2009 (Republished in: Holden, Tim, May, Bill, Farnham, Rich, 2009, On the Utility of Rescue Randy Mannequins in Rescue Systems Drop Testing, Nylon Highway 54:17 pages)
- Kharns, Brandon, 2008, Nylon and Polyester Prusik Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2008
- Kovach, Jim, 1999, 8mm Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Koprek, Kevin, 2015, Friction Hitches for Technical Rescue - An Open-Ended Approach, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Lyon Equipment Limited, 2001, Industrial rope access - Investigation into items of personal protective equipment, Contract Research Report 364/2001
- Mauthner, Kirk, 2001, Shock Absorbers in Rope Rescue: Questioning their use, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001
- Mauthner, Kirk, 2016, Dual Capability of Two Tensioned Rope Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium - Link will be updated when the ITRS web page is updated
- McDonald, Mike, 2005, Backyard Testing: Pitfalls, Pratfalls and Things That Go Bump in the Night, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Also posted on the Mountain Rescue Association grant archive page here)
- Miraglia, Mark, 2010, Prusik Minding Pulley-Tandem Prusik Belay Testing, Presented to the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2010 (Abstract only)
- Mortimer, Roger, 2015, Mud Changes the Performance of 3 Rope Grabs, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Moyer, Tom, 1999, Qualifying a Rescue Rope, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Moyer, Tom, Tusting, Paul, Harmston, Chris, 2000, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Reprinted in: Moyer, Tom, 2004, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Nylon Highway 49: 11 pages, and in pdf here. The raw data is posted here as well)
- Pendley, Tom, 2010a, Trying the "True" Belay: Tests Reveal Slow Response Time, Fire Rescue Magazine 2010
- Pendley, Tom, 2010b, Belay Test Yields Surprising Results, Informal belay test reveals rescuer's slow reaction time, FireRescue, July 2010
- Semmel, Von Chris, 2002, Die Handbremse, Gangige Sicherungsgerate I'm Vergleich, DAV Panorama 4/2002:61-62
- Semmel, Von Chris, Stopper, Dieter, 2002, Ein Praxisvergleich von Sicherungsmethoden beim Klettern, Panorama 2002(5):59-61 (Document in German)
- Smith, Blaine, 2005, A Comparison of Stretch and Forces Between Low- and High-Stretch Ropes During Simulated Crevasse Falls, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005
- Smith, Bob, 1964, Prusiking: An Academic Approach, Speleo Digest 1964:3-57 - 3-65
- Smith, Cedric, 2015, Multi-Variable Prusik Hitch Performance Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Stiles, Gary, 1971, Destruction Testing of the Rappel Rack, NSS News 29(10):122-123
- Stiller, Jerome, 2000, When Prusiks Go Bad, or Are you Sure That Thing is Gonna Hold? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000
- Stiller, Jerome, 2005, Tandem Prussiks: Is no news good news? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005
- Stoppelli, Tiziano, 1981, Corda vecchia fa buon brodo, Lo Scarpone, August and September 1981
- Thorne, Reed, 2007, Again..... Are you REALLY on Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007
- Thrun, Robert, 1971, Tests of Polypropylene Prusik Knots, Speleo Digest 1971:314
- Vandeford, A., 1968, Some Rope Tests, Speleo Digest 1968:3-35 (Abstract Only)
- Walker, DJ, McCullar, Russell, 2014, Slow Pull Testing of Progress Capture Devices, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014 (Reprinted in: Walker, DJ, McCullar, Russell, 2014, Slow Pull Testing of Progress Capture Devices, Nylon Highway 59: 16 pages) (Single Prusiks, Double Prusiks, Munter Hitch)
- Walters, Larry, 2014, Over the Edge, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014
- Walters, Larry, 2015, The Modern Day Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
Unpublished Research:
- Bavaresco, Paolo, Unknown Date, Ropes and Friction Hitches used in Tree Climbing Operations, Treevolution
- Bedogni, Vittorio, 2004, Analisi numerica delle tecniche di assicurazione "Il Modello Matematico" (Document in Italian)
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, Progressione di conserva della cordata: Impiego dei vari tipi di corda, problematiche e suggerimenti
- Evans, Thomas, 2015, Is There A Right Way To Tie A Prusik?
- Farmer, R., 2006, A scientific study of common friction knots (also posted here)
- Feryok, Zephyr, 2015, Light Anchors, Heavy Loads: Suitability of Dyneema in Rope Rescue Anchors (Only the talk had relevant data, presented at SARCON 2015, the presentation slides are here)
- Floyd, Dug, Unknown Date, What Load can One Person Hold with a Lowering Device (Descender) (Whaletail, Figure 8, Racks, Kong Hydrobot, Stitch Plate, Munter Hitch, Pitons and carabiners, Pitstop descender, Petzl I'D, CMC PMD)
- Hayes, Joel, Zimmering, Bob, Unknown Date, The Role of Energy Absorption in Technical Rescue Scenarios, Mountain Rescue Association Grant Archive (They also posted their data in an Excel file here)
- Junghannb, Stefan, 2014, Webbing Strength in Anchors (posted data table here) (munter hitches)
- Lazzaro, Torre S., Unknown Date, Appendice A: L'Utilizzo Di Due Mezze Corde
- markanite, 2008, Re:[markanite] Belay Device Friction Tests
- Moyer, Tom, 2000, Pull-Testing at the MRA Intermountain Recert
- Nic Le Maitre, 2008, Re: Classic Prusik Knot
- Prattley, Grant, Main, Lindsay, Welsh, Andrew, 2001, Rope Grab Test Report, New Zealand Land Search and Rescue Incorporated
- Prattley, Grant, 2014, Rigging Myths and other things rope
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Purcell prusik behavior during falls (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Sheehan, Alan, 2004a, Load Testing (slow pull testing of prusiks, a variety of friction hitches, a barrel knot)
- Sheehan, Alan, 2004b, Load Testing, NSW SES Vertical Rescue Professional Development Workshop, Wellington NSW, August 14, 2004 (Prusiks, figure 8 and figure 9 knots, old webbing sling, ascenders on a rope, munter hitch, klemheist-webbing and cord, double fisherman's, bowline, prusik made of webbing, girth hitch in webbing, Stevedore's hitch, Portuguese bowline, buntline hitch, clove hitch, Alpine clutch)
- Strikerescue, Unknown Date, Purcell Prusiks
- Taylor, Mark, Unknown Date, Loads at the anchor after main line failure during rescue
- Trihey, Lucas, 2006, Vertical Rescue Training Workshop Report: Equipment Testing
- Unknown Author, 1997, July 97 Drop Tests (also posted here)
- Unknown Author, 1998, 19980912-TER, Static Ropes, IKAR Terrestrial Rescue Commission (document in German)
- Unknown Author, 2009, Random Rope and System Testing
- Unknown Author, 2010, Rope system testing at Unofficial Swiftwater Rescue Instructor meet, Norway, July 2010 (tested dog and tails, prusiks with bend in bridge, a normal three wrap prusik)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date a, Swiftwater Rope Testing -Prussics & Petzl Tiblock (Wet and dry prusiks of different diameters)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date b, Prussik Knot Testing (Prusik on rope vs. prusik with knot in bridge)
- Vickers, Pete, 2006, Belay & Brake Device Loading Evaluation
Videos of Testing:
- Aaron Bird, 2008, Prusik Knot Drop Tests (drop testing of prusiks)
- CAI CSMT, 2014a, Alcuni esempi di prove nello studio sulle Soste
- CAI CSMT, 2014b, dvd csmt
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Rottura corda con 1:2 Barcaiolo (Video showing a drop test with a münter hitch tied in a torn up rope)
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011a, Тест страховки 2 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011b, Тест страховки 4 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- CornellTreeClimbing, 2011, Blake's Hitch Drop Test DRT, SRT (Youtube video of drop testing with the Blake's Hitch)
- Dom Vitali, 2014, Fail Testing Gibbs Ascender VS Prusik Knot (Video shows hauling on a gibbs ascender and a prusik)
- DRR Rescue, 2012, Vortex Drop 2012 (dropping 600 lbs on an Arizona Vortex with tandem prusik belay and prusiks for progress capture)
- DRR Rescue, 2014, How Far Will You Fall? (Youtube video of tandem prusik testing)
- Eric Campbell, 2009a, AZTEK pull test
- Eric Campbell, 2009b, AZTEK pull test (travel restrict side) (pull test of a Purcell prusik)
- FSTC, 2008, Drop Test (slow pulled a prusik, drop tested a gibbs ascender, tandem prusik belay, munter hitch)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012a, Prove di assicurazione dinamica - 1994 CAI-CSMT. Video Giovanni Duca.
- Giovanni Duca, 2012b, L'impegno del CAI per la sicurezza. 2006 (CAI- CSMT video Giovanni Duca)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012c, Tecniche di assicurazione.Confronto tra assicurazione classica e ventral CAI - CSMT
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011a, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 2) (Video shows pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots, including munter hitches and a variety of friction hitches )
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011b, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - La Torre (Video 3o) (Video shows pull and drop tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots, including drop tests on munter hitches)
- Johan Wiid, 2015, Tandem prusik droptest 200kg load
- Kevin Bingham, 2012a, rope wrench drop testing (Youtube Video testing friction hitches and the rope wrench)
- Kevin Bingham, 2012b, Static pull tests Rope Wrench (Youtube Video slow pulling friction hitches and a rope wrench)
- Marc Beverly, 2007, Slow Pull 6mm prusik on 8mm cord
- Matt Hinkle, 2011a, Rope Rescue - Pull Test (Pull tested a prusik and mechanical rope grab)
- Matt Hinkle, 2011b, Drop Testing (Video of drop tests onto munter hitches and tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- monkeybaboon's channel, 2008, drop test (Petzl ID, dynamic rope cows tails, prusik on cord)
- monkeybaboon's channel, 2007, drop test on mountain rescue style restraint (drop test of a Purcell prusik)
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009a, Torre Padova - Prove assicurazione con mezzo barcaiolo (Video of a drop test of a load onto a munter hitch)
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009b, Torre Padova - Prove assicurazione (Video of a drop test of a load onto a munter hitch)
- North Wash Outfitters 2015a, Prusik Pull Test #1
- North Wash Outfitters 2015b, Prusik Pull Test #2
- North Wash Outfitters 2015c, Prusik Pull Test #3
- North Wash Outfitters 2015d, Prusik Pull Test #4
- NZcaver, 2007a, Tandem Prusik catches the load
- NZcaver, 2007b, Tandem Prusik catches the load
- NZcaver, 2007c, Triple Wrap Prusik slip-and-grab
- NZcaver, 2010, Rope rescue knot failures (Slow pulled prusik, gibbs ascender, knots, sewn prusik)
- NZcaver, 2012, Breaking Gear NCRC 2012
- OTE Rescue, 2014, Rigging Myths
- Richard Delaney, 2012a, Pull-test: New 11mm with new 8mm 3wrap prusik - prusik slips at 11.75kN
- Richard Delaney, 2012b, Pull-test: Old 11mm with new 8mm 3wrap prusik - prusik snaps at 17kN
- Richard Delaney, 2012c, Tandem prusik belay catching fall during lower
- Richard Delaney, 2012d, Sterling htp 11.1 rope with Blue Water 8mm 3 wrap classic prusik
- Richard Delaney, 2012e, Tandem Prusik Belay - with back tension = drop
- Richard Delaney, 2014, MPD, ID, Super Munter to lower 600lbs (272kg) (Youtube Video)
- Richard Delaney, 2016, Purcell prusik snap: 100kG, Fall Factor 2
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015a, Test 1 071415 Nylon 3W Prusik on 11mm sudden slip
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015b, Test 3 091814 VT 6:1
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015c, Test 6 091814 HB sheath pop
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015d, Test 30 071414 HB on 11mm cut rope
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015e, Test 37 071514 VT 6 over 1 sudden slip
- Rigging for Rescue, 2015f, Test 54 071514 HB sheath pop
- scuolavalledelladda, 2011, Prove di trattenuta della caduta (Video showing people catching falling loads with munter hitches)
- Strikerescue, 2011, Purcell Prusik Testing 6mm Perlon - Strike Rescue (Youtube video of testing 6mm Purcell Prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date a, PMR 540 Belay Testing.mov (video shows drop testing with tandem triple wrap prusik belays and 540 belays)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date b, FF 1 point 5 catches.wmv (purcel prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date c, F-not dressed.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date d, F-too loose.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date e, F-TPB angled.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date f, F-TPB mind against pulley.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date g, F-TPB shuffling.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date h, F-TPB Ztwist.avi (tandem triple wrap prusiks)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date i, TPB 1m on 3m.wmv
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date j, Purcell FF 15 Fail - Drop 79.wmv
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date k, Purcell FF 2 Fail - Drop 3.wmv
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date l, Purcell FF1 PMI - Drops 6 to 10.wmv
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date m, Purcell FF1 Sterling -Drops 20 to 24.wmv
- UtahHighways, 2016, Tandem Prusik Belay vs Twin Tensioned System Testing
Load Releasing Hitches:
- Dill, John, 1991, Are you Really on Belay? Part II, Nylon Highway 32:18-22 (Reprinted from Response Magazine, Fall 1990) (Marriner's Knot, Load Releasing Hitch)
- Kovach, Jim, 1999, 8mm Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Stiller, Jerome, 2005, Tandem Prussiks: Is no news good news? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005
Friction Hitch Descriptions:
- Adams, Mark, 2004, An Overview of Climbing Hitches, Arborist News
- Cuddington, Bill, 1986, "Let's Talk Prusiking", Nylon Highway 22:9-10, 25 (Helical Knot)
- Deal, Dwight, 1967, Knots, NSS news 25(5):89-90
- Graham, Dick, 1969, Caving With The Acender Knot, Speleo Digest 1968:209
- Graham, Dick, 1972, Caving with the Ascender Knot, Speleo Digest 1972:257-258
- Hazelton, Steve, 2000, The Dog 'N Tails Knot, Speleo Digest 2000:388
- Hedden, Chet, 1959, A New Climbing Knot, Speleo Digest 1959:3-11 – 3-13
- Judge, Brian, 1984, An Adjustable Sling, Nylon Highway 18:15-16 (Knut Hitch)
- Lancaster, Stephen, 1983, A Foolproof Prusik, Speleo Digest 1983:397-398
- Larson, Arnor, 1989, The Load Releasing Hitch, Nylon Highway 29:4
- Mitchell, Dick, 1969, A New Knot For Caving, Speleo Digest 1969:69-70
- Mitchell, Dick, 1969, A New Knot For Caving, Speleo Digest 1969:208-209
- Mitchell, Dick, 1972, A New Knot For Caving, Speleo Digest 1972:285
- Penberthy, Larry, 1969, New Knots Useful In Mountaineering, Speleo Digest 1969:210-211
- Perera, Tom, 1962, An Analysis of Some Old and New Techniques for Vertical Caving, NSS News 20(2):12-16
- Plummer, Bill, 1961, A New Climbing Knot, NSS News 19(6):69
- Plummer, Bill, 1962, Seat Prusik, Knots, Belays, NSS News 20(5):52
- Plummer, Bill, 1962, An Evaluation Of A Few Climbing Knots, NSS News 20(7):85-86
- Prohaska, Heinz, 1990, To Jamming Knots for Thick Cord & Webbing, Nylon Highway 30:3 (Reprinted in Speleo Digest 1990:386-387, Unclear if these hitches are in use)
- Rigging for Rescue, Unknown Date, The Purcell Prusik System
- Russell, William, 1964, Rbs Knot, NSS News 22(5):56-57
- Smith, Bruce, 1984, Tree Climbing, Nylon Highway 18:14-15 (Blake's Hitch)
- Smith, Bruce, 1983, The Ascender Knot, Nylon Highway 17:19-20 (also known as the Helical Knot)
- Smith, Bruce, 1974, The Bachmann Knot, "Let's tie it right", Nylon Highway 3:15-17
- Varnedoe, W. W., 1959, Bachman Knot, NSS News 17(7):111
Load Releasing Hitch Descriptions:
- Fortini, Art, 1990, Release Knots, Nylon Highway 30:10 (Mariner's Hitch, Load Release Hitch, Modified Load Release Hitch)
- Rigging for Rescue, Unknown Date, Radium Release Hitch
Also of Interest:
- Adams, Mark, 2005, Son of a Hitch: A Genealogy of Arborists' Climbing Hitches, Arborist News April 2005, 5 pages
- Krauel, Matt, Unknown Date, The Mathematical Theory of Hitches
- Milne, K.A., McLaren, A.J., 2006, An assessment of the strength of knots and splices used as eye terminations in a sailing environment
- Prohaska, Heinz, 1991, The Prusik Knot: A 60 Year History, Nylon Highway 34:1-3
- Smith, Bruce, 1983, Myths, Nylon Highway 17:20 (correct orientation of prusiks when tied on laid rope)
- Wright, C.E.I., Magowan, J. E., 1928, Knots for Climbers