Knots
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research that includes knot testing data we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
For a synopsis spreadsheet that incorporates most of the data here, click here. New citations will be added to the analysis periodically. This synopsis spreadsheet was last updated on 11/17/2017
Published Research:
Unpublished Research:
Videos of Knot Strength Tests:
Also of Interest:
For a synopsis spreadsheet that incorporates most of the data here, click here. New citations will be added to the analysis periodically. This synopsis spreadsheet was last updated on 11/17/2017
Published Research:
- Arnaud, Judicael, 2005, La cordelette dyneema en speleology, Les Cahiers De L'E.F.S. No. 13
- Arnaud, Judicael, Borie, Sylvain, Clement, Nicolas, Mulot, Jose, 2005, La cordelette Dyneema et son utilization en speleologie, Groupe d'Etudes Techniques EFS, Spelunca 97 - 1er trimester 2005
- Baldwin, Jack, 1967, Equipment Testing, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1967:2-6
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Guastalli, Elio, 2004, Cordini per alpinismo: caratteristiche, problematiche e suggerimenti (1a parte), La Rivista del Club Alpino Italiano, Maggio-Giugno: 84-90 (Document in Italian)
- Borie, Sylvain, Cazes, Gerard, Clement, Nicolas, Mulot, Jose, 2008, Les sangles, Spelunca 109:50-51
- Born, Russ, 2000, Still in Search of a Reliable Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000
- Boron, K., Obstalecki, M., Kurath, P. Horn, G.P., 2013, Utilizing Knots to Reduce Dynamic Loads in Fire Service Rope Systems, Conference Proceedings for the Society for Experimental Mechanics Series 1, pp. 433-439
- Bressan, di Giuliano, Polato, Massimo, Unknown Date, Longe e Daisy Chain: impieghi, Numeri di Alpinismo Unknown Volume:210-215
- Brown, Alasdair, 2008, The Strength of Knots in Dynamic Climbing Rope, MEng Mechanical Engineering Technical Report
- Carter, H. Adams, 1962, New Equipment, MARWA Ice Screw, American Alpine Journal 13(1):287
- Chamonix, 2008, Series of Tests on Cow's Tails used for progression on semi-static ropes, Nylon Highway 53:39 pages (Originally published somewhere else?)
- Clinch, Nick, 1960, Equipment, American Alpine Journal 12(1):190
- Detter, Andreas, Cowell, Chris, McKeown, Liam, Howard, Paul, 2008, Evaluation of current rigging and dismantling practices used in arboriculture, Health and Safety Executive, Research Report, RR668 (There are three popular press articles that cover the research briefly here, here, and here.)
- Drummond, I., 1968, An Incident and Some Tests Concerning Sampson Rope For Prusiking, NSS News 26(8):114-116
- Evans, Thomas, 2015, Response of Some 3:1 Haul Systems to Excessive Loading, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015 (Also posted on the ITRS archive page)
- Evans, Thomas, Truebe, Sarah, 2016, A Review of Knot Strength Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016 (Also posted here at the ITRS web page-Link will be updated when the paper is posted on the ITRS web page)
- Federation Francaise de Speleologie, 2013a, Les longes en speleology et descente de canyon, Pourquoi ces tests? Groupe d'Etudes Techniques
- Federation Francaise de Speleologie, 2013b, La cordelette Dyneema en speleology, Groupe D'Etudes Techniques
- Federation Francaise de Speleologie, 2013c, Les sangles, Groupe D'Etudes Techniques
- Feryok, Zephyr, 2015, Is Light Right? Safe Highlines With Minimal Gear, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
Raw Data Tabulated Results Web Page - Frank, James, 1998, CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Third Edition, CMC Rescue, Inc. Santa Barbara, California
- Gommers, Mark, 2014, An Analysis of Bowlines, Nylon Highway 59:32 pages (Also posted here)
- Hansen, Douglas, 2004, A Look at Knot Strength in a Dynamic Situation, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2004
- Hansen, Douglas, 2005, What Is Your Real Safety Margin, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005
- Jeffrey, Darren, McDaniel , Travis, Santillan, Gavin, 2010, Canyoneering Anchors and Basic Rope Systems, AuthorHouse, Indiana (Figure 8 bends pg. 94-95)
- Limagne, Remy, 1995, Les Noeuds de junction, Groupe d'Etudes Techniques de l'EFS, Spelunca 59, 6 pages
- Luscinski, Keith, 2015, Knotted vs. Sewn Terminations in Cow's Tails, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Martin, Daniel, A., Boron, Kevin, Osbstalecki, Kurath, Peter, Horn, Gavin P., 2015, Feasibility of Knots to Reduce the Maximum Dynamic Arresting Load in Rope Systems, Journal of Dynamic Behavior of Materials 1:214-224
- McDonald, Mike, 2005, Backyard Testing: Pitfalls, Pratfalls and Things That Go Bump in the Night, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Also posted on the Mountain Rescue Association grant archive page here)
- McKently, John, 2014, Rescue Knot Efficiency Revisited, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014 (Reprinted in: McKently, John, 2014, Rescue Knot Efficiency Revisited, Nylon Highway 59: 6 pages)
- Meredith, Irving, 1960, Climbing Rope Tests, American Alpine Journal 12(1):191-194
- Moyer, Tom, 1999, Water Knot Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Moyer, Tom, 2001, Water Knot Testing, Nylon Highway 46:4 pages, Or in pdf
- Moyer, Tom, Tusting, Paul, Harmston, Chris, 2000, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Reprinted in: Moyer, Tom, 2004, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Nylon Highway 49: 11 pages, and in pdf here. The raw data is posted here as well)
- O'Neill, Collin, 2001, Slow-Pull Testing of the "Double Overhand On Itself" Tie, Nylon Highway 46:8 pages, and in pdf here (reprinted here, and Speleo Digest 2000:386-388)
- Prohaska, Heinz, 1988, A Safer Bowline for Climbers and Cavers, Nylon Highway 26:4-5
- Richards, Dave, 2004, Knot Break Strength vs. Rope Break Strength, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2004 (Reprinted in: Richards, Dave, 2005, Knot Break Strength vs. Rope Break Strength, Nylon Highway 50:9 pages, a different copy is posted here)
- Schmidt, David, Clifford, David, 2007, Busted! A test of the breaking strengths of five common knots, Sail Magazine February 2007:82,84-85
- Sims, Mike, 1970, Rope Tests, Speleo Digest 1970:245
- Smith, Bruce, 1986, Which is Stronger? Nylon Highway 22:14 (Bowlines with tails inside vs. outside of the loop)
- Smith, Bruce, 1995, Myth Busting, Nylon Highway 39:6-11
- Spahr, R.A., 1987, Tuff-Enough???, Speleo Digest 1987:361
- Storage, William, 1992, Slippery Ground and Undercurrents, NSS News 50(5):132-134
- Unknown Author, 2003, Fall on Rock-Lowering Error, No Hard Hat, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Left Slap Crack, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 8(3):83b
- Vines, Tom, Hudson, Steve, 2004, High Angle Rescue Techniques, Third Edition, Mosby, St. Louis (pg 69)
- Weber, Chuck, 2001, Fall Factors & Life Safety Ropes: a closer look, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001
- Wright, Landon, Salmon, John, 2016, An Analysis of the Impact of Environmental Conditions on Webbing Strength, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium- Link will be updated when the ITRS page is updated
Unpublished Research:
- 20 kN, 2012, Webbing & threaded highline analysis w/strain gauge indicator
- 20 kN, 2013a, EDK Destructive Testing of Different Diameter Ropes
- 20 kN, 2013b, Destructive Testing: Webbing Termination Methods
- Avigamo, 2011, Video-ensayo: Resistencia de nudos
- Banquo, 2010, Testing Marked Ropes to Failure (Prusik loops versus clove hitches)
- Bavaresco, Paolo, Unknown Date, Ropes and Friction Hitches used in Tree Climbing Operations, Treevolution
- Beeson, Chris, 2015, What is the strongest sailing knot?
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Guastalli, Elio, Unknown Date, Cordini per alpinismo: carattaristiche, problematiche e suggerimenti (1a parte)
- Bigelmayr, Max, 2014, Climbing Ropes: Knot Break Tests
- BluuGnome, Unknown Date, Smooth Operator (BluuGnome version of the Fiddlestick) Pull Cord and Release Considerations
- Brian in SLC, 2012, Sonny, Paul, mark, and Trevor's tests on the fiddlestick
- Brutscher, Jorg, 2005, What strength has a placement of knotted cord?
- Canyonero, 2015, Fiddlestick Testing
- Castro, Miguel, Jimenez, Manuel, Castro, Javi, 2010, Las cuerdas. Mira de que te cuelgas...
- Chanock, Unknown Date, CEM Knot, The Mexican recoverable anchor
- Dave, Unknown Date, Secure Bowstring Knot
- Deagol, 2013, Knot testing with Fiddlestick
- Deagol, 2015, Premature Fiddlestick Ejection
- Draughon, Baron, 2004, PRM 426 Lab Test - Rescue Equipment - Test to Failure
- Drohan, David, 2001, Preferred Knots for Use in Canyons, at the bottom of the page is the article and all of the associated data(Reprinted in: Drohan, David, 2007, Preferred Knots for Use in Canyons, Nylon Highway 52:30 pages, also posted here)
- Estar, 2013, Rope/knot/splice load testing
- Evans, Thomas, 2012, Implementing Example Research Methods at ITRS 2012 and Their Results, SAR^3
- Evans, Thomas, 2015a, Rope Length Efficiency of Common Rigging Knots, SAR^3
- Evans, Thomas, 2015b, Strength and Failure Mode of the Voodoo Tensioning System, SAR^3
- Evans, Thomas, 2016, Rope Length Efficiency of Rigging Knots in 1 Inch Tubular Webbing, SAR^3
- Gudelius, Claudia, Unknown Date, Two knots to tie two ropes together (although with different diameters) for rappelling/abseiling (Originally in German, with some English translation on the web page) (Flat triple overhand, double fisherman's, an another knot I can not quite determine the name)
- harness man, 2014, How strong is that sling? or Are you gonna rap on that!!!???
- Hundal, Geir, Unknown Date, The Climbing Mythbusters (Pulled a clove hitch with a truck, flat overhand, )
- Jones, Tom, 2002, Girth hitching slings to the cable on wired nuts
- Jones, Tom, 2005, Some Knot Testing Data (Figure 8 and Figure 9)
- Junghannb, Stefan, 2014, Webbing Strength in Anchors (posted data table here)
- Knight, Pete, 2013a, Testing a method of failure with a Bowline-on-the-Bight knot
- Knight, Pete, 2013b, 2nd round of testing on the Bowline-on-the-Bight knot
- Knight, Pete, Rodger, Roy, Mehew, Bob, 2013, Initial Results from a Preliminary Investigation into Y Hang Knots
- Koller, Tom, 2013, Testing of Slings and Reepschnuren, Presentations of the Terrestrial and Avalanche Rescue Commissions
- Koller, Tom, 2013, Materials Testing of Slings, Knots and Dyneema Loops, Terrestrial Rescue Report, International Commission for Alpine Rescue, 2013, pg. 8
- Lawrence, Sonny, 2013, Stein knot testing (the data is posted here)
- Mammut Sports Group, 2007, Report on the breaking of a girth-hitched sling, with recommendations for usage of connected slings
- Mark Gommers, 2011, Offset Bound Overhand Bend
- Middleton, Dan, 2015, Abseil Knots (Flat Overhand, Figure 8, and double overhand)
- Mountaineer, 2013, Knot testing with Fiddlestick
- Moyer, Tom, 1999, Pull Tests of the "Euro Death-Knot
- Moyer, Tom, 2000, Pull-Testing at the MRA Intermountain Recert
- Parker, Robert, Unknown Date, Use and Abuse of the Clove Hitch
- Petzl, Unknown Date a, RAD Line Joining Knots, Tests of joining knots useful for rappelling and glacier travel
- Petzl, Unknown Date b, Appendix 5: Analysis of Solutions Observed in the Field - Use of a Single Ascender with Knots in the Rope.
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date a, What is the Strongest Rappel Knot?
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, What is the Safest Rappel Knot?
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date b, Sharpie for Marking the Middle of a Rope? (Also posted here)
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Sharpie for Marking the MIddle of a Rope?
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date c, Connecting Two Slings Together
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Connecting Two Slings Together
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date d, Retiring Old Ropes
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Retiring Old Ropes
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date e, Girth Hitching a Stopper
- Prattley, Grant, 2014a, A knot that drives you around the bend!
- Prattley, Grant, 2014b, Rigging Myths and other things rope
- Prattley, Grant, 2016, Which Bend For Joining Ropes? Testing and analysis of flat bends used for rope retrieval
- Rapterman, 2014, Fiddlestick Testing
- Rapterman, 2015, Franken Stick Testing
- Richard Delaney, 2014, Members: Right and wrong Figure-of-8 knot (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Failure of the Cats Paw knot (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Purcell prusik behavior during falls (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Rope Stretch (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: PowerCord, Sterling 5.9mm PowerCord (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Litter bridles (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Derating for knots (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Testing the Bunny Ears knot (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Rich Carlson, 2015, EDK in Webbing?
- Sheehan, Alan, 2004a, Load Testing (slow pull testing of prusiks, a variety of friction hitches, a barrel knot)
- Sheehan, Alan, 2004b, Load Testing, NSW SES Vertical Rescue Professional Development Workshop, Wellington NSW, August 14, 2004 (Prusiks, figure 8 and figure 9 knots, old webbing sling, ascenders on a rope, munter hitch, klemheist-webbing and cord, double fisherman's, bowline, prusik made of webbing, girth hitch in webbing, Stevedore's hitch, Portuguese bowline, buntline hitch, clove hitch, Alpine clutch)
- Unknown Author, 1998, 19980912-TER, Static Ropes, IKAR Terrestrial Rescue Commission (document in German)
- Unknown Author, 2006, Spectra Knots (testing of spectra slings with knots in them) (there is a movie of the testing here)
- Unknown Author, 2009, Random Rope and System Testing
- Unknown Author, 2015a, Webbing Knots (shows graphs and two videos of three tests measuring webbing bend strength)
- Unknown Author, 2015b, Sheet Bend Testing (shows graphs and videos of three tests measuring sheet bend strength)
- Unknown Author, 2015c, Offset Bound Overhand Bend Testing (shows two videos and graphs of knot testing)
- Unknown Author, 2015d, Fiddlestick Testing (shows a graph, two videos, and three pictures of fiddlestick testing)
- Unknown Author 2016, Pull test on traverse line knots
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Swiftwater Rope Testing - Wet and Dry Rope Strength (Figure 8 knots)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Karash Knot Testing Data (Data posted here and here)
- Vickers, Pete, 2006a, Belay & Brake Device Loading Evaluation
- Vickers, Pete, 2006b, Throwline tensile strength Investigation
- Vogel, Todd, Unknown Date, Knot and cord strength: answers to common questions
- Zoppello, Cristiano, 2014, Le longe in arrampicata, speleologia e torrentismo
Videos of Knot Strength Tests:
- avigamo, 2011a, Ensayos de traccion I (nudo de gaza y ballestrinque)
- avigamo, 2011b, Ensayos de Traccion II (nodo gaza y nudo de cinta)
- avigamo, 2011c, Ensayos de traccion III (pescador simple y bulin)
- Bob Kuykendall, 2008a, Strength test of nylon sling climer hitched to cable
- Bob Kuykendall, 2008b, Strength test of nylon sling girth hitched to cable
- CAI CSMT, 2014, dvd csmt
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Rottura Moschettone con caduta peso
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015a, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015b, CSMT - Le "Longe"
- Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche, 2013, Video Presentazione studio Longe
- Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche, 2016, Longe study
- Cергей Веденин, 2011a, Тест встречного узла, дайнема (test of a knotted dyneema sling)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011b, Тест узла восьмерка 2. (Figure 8 test)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011c, Тест узла восьмерка. (Figure 8 test)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011d, Тест узла девятка. (Figure 9 test)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011e, Тест узла проводник. (EDK test)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011f, Тест узла "половина грейпвайна". (Grapevine knot, or half a double fisherman's)
- Cергей Веденин, 2012, станции из репшнура
- CornellTreeClimbing, 2011, Blake's Hitch Drop Test DRT, SRT (Youtube video of drop testing with the Blake's Hitch)
- danmerrick, 2010, 12-9-2010 012.avi
- DMM Climbing, 2011, How to Break Nylon and Dyneema Slings (tested dyneema slings with and without knots)
- DMM Climbing, 2012a, Knotting Dyneema? (Slow pull and dynamic drops of knotted dyneema slings)
- DMM Climbing, 2012b, Improvisation - Lark's Foot or Basket Hitch? (Video that shows the effects of using a girth hitch or a basket hitch for extending slings)
- DMM Climbing, 2013, Slings at Anchors (Video of numerous drop tests of knotted nylon and dyneema slings in various configurations)
- Eric Campbell, 2009a, Runner pull testing (basket with sharp edge)
- Eric Campbell, 2009b, Runner pull testing (basket hitch)
- Eric Campbell, 2009c, Runner pull testing (girth hitch)
- erwright3, 2011, Figure8breaktst2007
- Gethin Thomas, 2013, Failure of a Double Bowline
- Gethin Thomas, 2016, Caving Traverse Knots. Pull tests.
- Giorgio Fiori, 2014a, Anchorage srt, knots test. (Video showing slow pull test of arborist anchor and knots failed)
- Giorgio Fiori, 2014b, TEST on SRT ANCHOR with FRICTION SAVER (Video showing slow pull test of an SRT anchor)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2008, TECNICHE E MATERIALI SPELEO ALPINISTICI 3o parte (Video showing slow pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011a, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 2) (Video shows pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011b, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 1) (Video shows pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011c, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione veloce (Video 2o) (Video shows pull tests of variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Harness destruction testing, 2011a, break in the knot analysis
- Harness destruction testing, 2011b, spectra knot undoing
- Harness destruction testing, 2011c, readers digest version of multiple weather exposed spectra climbing slings tests.wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011d, Yosemite finish tie in 2
- Helga Sanna, 2010, Esperimento: test tenuta delle corde
- ItalianTREK Alpinismo, 2012a, Tecnica de Alpinismo - Prueba de Nudos
- ItalianTREK Alpinismo, 2012b, Materiales y Tecnicas Alpinismo - Pruebas Caidas
- made in mountain, 2015, Ballestrinque: Desliza o se rompe?
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013a, ROTTURA/SCIOGLIMENTO NODI SU CORDINI A TRAZIONE LENTA (video shows slow pull tests of a number of ropes/knots, including flat overhand knots)
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013b, TENUTA CORDINI A TRAZIONE LENTA (video of slow pull tests of rope and knots in loops of cord
- Mnmo Npoxoann, 2011, UIAA Mountain Equipment Testing
- NZcaver, 2010, Rope rescue knot failures (Slow pulled prusik, gibbs ascender, knots, sewn prusik)
- NZcaver, 2012, Breaking Gear NCRC 2012 (Butterfly, figure 8, bowline, Carrick bend)
- OTE Rescue, 2014, Rigging Myths
- Peak Instruction's old YouTube account, 2013, Bowline-on-the-Bight testing by Pete Knight
- Peak Instruction's old YouTube account, 2013, Bowline-on-th-Bight testing round 2 by Pete Knight & Jez Parr
- Pete Knight, 2015a, Bowline on the Bight drop test compilation
- Pete Knight, 2015b, Double bowline on the bight drop test compilation
- Pete Knight, 2015c, Fig8 Bunny Ears drop test compilation
- Pete Knight, 2015d, Figure of 8 Loop drop test compilation
- Pete Knight, 2015e, Fusion Knot drop test compilation
- Richard Delaney, 2012a, EDK pull test
- Richard Delaney, 2012b, EDK Edelrid 11mm super static
- Richard Delaney, 2012c, EDK plus extra overhand knot Edelrid 11mm dynamic
- Richard Delaney, 2012d, Figure-of-8 vs. Bowline
- Richard Delaney, 2012e, Sterling htp 11.1mm rope: figure-of-8 knot against bowline
- Richard Delaney, 2015a, Figure 8 Bunny Ears knot test
- Richard Delaney, 2015b, "EDK": overhand & fig8 pull test (video showing pull tests of flat overhand and flat figure 8 knots)
- Richard Delaney, 2015c, Figure-of-8: 75% or 50%
- Robo, 2012, Cross load test of common climbing knots
- SARRR, 2015, Slow Pulling a Webbing and Cord Girth Hitch
- Seitz, Doug, 2009, Informal pull test of EDK (Youtube video of pull test)
- superbenjaman, 2011, Prueba de rupture de equipo de escalada tirolesa cable tensor polea mosqueton (Slow pull test of girth hitched slings)
- top_rope, 2014a, Marlow 8mm Viper Prusik Cord Test - TREE SURGERY ARBORISTS (Video of girth hitched prusik cord failing)
- top_rope, 2014b, TEST of MARLOW Viper 8mm eye2eye LANYARD ROPE PRUSIK (Video of girth hitched prusik cord failing)
- tterruel, 2008, Test climbing equipment
- unjoan, 2016a, Nudo JOANET o Nudo Juanito (La revolucion)
- unjoan, 2016b, Pruebas de Resistencia del Nudo JOANET o Nudo Juanito (Algunas de las pruebas realizadas)
Also of Interest:
- Brittney S., 2005, The Effect of Knot Type on the Breaking Strength of Rope
- Delaney, David, 2010, Jam testing several bends
- Gommers, Mark, 2012, Knots Study Guide, PACI Pty Ltd. (Password is: thankyou)
- Milne, K.A., McLaren, A.J., 2006, An assessment of the strength of knots and splices used as eye terminations in a sailing environment, Sports Engineering 9:1-13
- OTE Rescue, 2012, Knots Check by urescue2 (Excellent Youtube video of how to safety check a knot)
- Plummer, William, 1963, Theory of the Climbing Knot, Speleo Digest 1963:3-35 - 3-49
- Smith, R.D., 2011, Rope and knot tensile testing program
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Load Testing (Data posted here)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, The Strength Test