Miscellaneous Research
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research that did not fall into any of the other categories that we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
Rappelling Forces:
Miscellaneous:
Miscellaneous Useful Resources:
Rappelling Forces:
Miscellaneous:
- access techniques, 2014, Horizontal Tension Lines for rope access, by Access techniques Ltd
- Adam Burtle, 2010, Primitive and multiplier slackline tension tests (video showing forces on a slackline during tensioning)
- Adam Burtle, 2011, Non-forged line-locker on a slackline (video showing tensioning of slackline hardware)
- Alfier, Ennio, Bressan, Giuliano, 1996, Chiodi da Roccia, 2. Parte, Le Alpi Venete 1:90-95 (Document in Italian, tested strengths of pitons)
- Antonini, Giuseppe, Piazza, Oskar, 2014, Cadere sugli attrezzi: cosa succede? il Soccorso Alpino, April 2014:20-23 (Document in Italian, drop tests with a variety of hardware)
- Austin, George, 1966, Equipment Testing, Accidents in American Mountaineering 1966:6-10
- Balance Community, 2011, Gear Test - Leash Fall Simulations (Report on dropping a leashed load onto a slackline and the forces that developed in the slacklines)
- Balance Community, 2011, Slack Science -Leash Fall Simulations (Video of dropping loads onto tensioned slacklines)
- Balance Community, 2014, Various tests with Soft Shackles (Includes testing with wire connected to nuts)
- Bob Kuykendall, 2008, Strength test two 1/8" cables girth hitched together
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, I materiali per l'alpinismo e l'arrampicata === Le norme relative
- Bucher, Thomas, Hitthaler, Elias, 2005, Bedarf 2013: Die Ergebnisse einer Erhebung in deutschen Kletterhallen liengen vor, Panorama 2005(1):22-25 (Article in German)
- CAI CSMT, 2014, dvd csmt
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- Cazes, Gerard, Clement, Nicolas, Laussac, Pierre-Bernard, 2009, Les connecteurs legers, Spelunca 114: 43-44
- Celesti, Sergio, Guerriero, Giovanni, Salvatori, Francesco, 1984, Sollecitazioni Dinamiche E Statiche Nelle Attrezzature Speleologiche. Teoria E Sperimentazione. Speleologica Umbra, Numero Speciale - Ottobre 1984 (Book in Italian)
- Chastain, Harry, 1969, Test Report, Speleo Digest 1969:211
- Club Alpino Italiano, Corop Nationale Soccorso Alpino, Sezione Speleologica, 1989, Resistenza Dei Materiali Speleo-Alpinistici, Commissione Tecniche e Materiali della Senzione Speleologica del Corpo Nazionale Soccorso Alpino e del Centro Nazionale di Speleologia (Book in Italian) (Covers the strengths of many pieces of caving/climbing hardware and software)
- Club Alpino Italiano, 2012, Nuove ricerche su corde, cordini e moschettoni (Protocolli di sperimentazione) (Document in Italian)
- Custer, Dave, Unknown Date, An Elastic Model of the Holding Power of Spring Loaded Camming Devices Used as Rock Climbing Anchors
- danmerrick, 2010, Rock Climbing Hanger and Chain Anchor Test, Part1/2
- danmerrick, 2010, Rock Climbing Hanger and Chain Anchor Test, Part 2/2
- Davison, Don, 1979, Safety & Techniques, NSS News 37(4):86-88 (Screw Link testing)
- Detter, Andreas, 2008, Evaluation of Current Rigging Techniques Used to Dismantle Trees, Arborist News 17(2):34-37
- Detter, Andreas, 2009, Rigging Research Report Now Available Online, Arborist News 18(1):60-61
- Detter, Andreas, 2013, Estimating Forces Generated in Rigging Operations, Arborist News 22(2):40-44
- Dragon Cam v. A Big Boulder, Produced by DMM (Video shows a cam lifting a large boulder)
- Dunn, Don, 1997, Destructive Test Results Of Old And New Cave Equipment, Speleo Digest 1997:383-384 (screw links)
- Federation Francaise de Speleologie, 2013, Les connecteurs legers, Groupe D'Etudes Techniques
- Francesco, Salvatori, 1988, Teoria della percussion di elementi elastici applicata alle sollecitazioni impulsive sulle attrezzature speleo-alpinistiche, Club Alpino Italiano Il Bollettino 89:60-70 (Paper in Italian)
- Francesco, Salvatori, Marco, Menichetti, Sergio, Celesti, Luca, Ponderini, Domenico, Bocchio, 2011, La Torre CRASC: Un Nuovo Strumento per Valutare Gli Effetti Delle Sollecitazioni Dinamiche Sulle Attrezzature Speleo-Alpinistiche E Canyoning (Document in Italian)
- Francesco, Salvatori, Marco, Menichetti, 2010-2013, Course materials for their classes in how they perform testing:
2010 2011 2012 2013 - Giorgio Fiori, 2015, A small test about vectors (An excellent video demonstrating the vector forces in a system)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, Prove Universita di Padova, 2003. CAI - CSMT
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2008, TECHNICHE E MATERIALI SPELEO ALPINISTICI 1o Parte (Video showing slow pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2008, TECHNICHE E MATERIALI SPELEO ALPINISTICI 2o Parte (Video showing slow pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecniche e materiali speleo alpinistici al CENS 2008 1o Parte (Alta Qualita) (Video showing pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecniche e materiali speleo alpinistici al CENS 2008 2o Parte (Alta Qualita) (Video showing pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Hellberg, Von Florian, Semmel, Chris, 2011, Klettersteigsets: Nichts Fur Kinder? Gafahr durch "harte" Klettersteigbremsen, Panorama 2011(4):63-66 (Document in German)
- Hummel, Von Christoph, Hellberg, Florian, 2014, Kampf Dem Eisberg! Unfalle an kunstlichen Kletteranlagen, Panorama 2014(6):62-64 (Document in German)
- iscmarketing, 2014, STRW Practical Testing Video (Video of forces on anchors when performing arborist tasks)
- Jeffrey, Darren, McDaniel , Travis, Santillan, Gavin, 2010, Canyoneering Anchors and Basic Rope Systems, AuthorHouse, Indiana (Screw links on pg. 98)
- Kuster, Joe, 2008, Slackline Load Measuring Tests - Test 1
- Manes, Andrea, Bedogni, Vittorio, Rogora, Davide, 2012, An Experimental Methodology for the Assessment of Climbing Devices Actual Strength, Proceedings of the 15th International Conferenc on Experimental Mechanics, Paper Ref: 2745
- Manes, Andrea, 2014, Ancoraggi da Roccia - test di estrazione
- Mnmo Npoxoann, 2011, UIAA Mountain Equipment Testing
- MrSlackline, 2012, Slackline Brothers Break Testing!! (Video showing slow pull testing of a haul system, and pulleys)
- NWSlackline.org, 2009, Just how much tension can you put in a slackline?
- NWSlackline.org, 2010, Primitive tension testing results
- NWSlackline.org, 2010, Break test: non-forged aluminum line locker
- NZcaver, 2007, Destruction testing of hardware at SMC (Slow pull test of rigging plate, a locked off figure 8 slipping, open frame rack bending, and a nylon sheave pulley breaking)
- Petzl Professional, 2011, Petzl - Laboratory Test Tower (video that shows a variety of Petzl drop tests but does not report the results)
- Possich, Joel, Limagne, Remy, Mulot, Jose, Maurice, Alain, Vasse, Laurent, Holvoet, Jean-Pierre, Caillault, Serge, Sanson, Eric, 1998, Degagement d'equipier : "le coupe de corde" (2), Spelunca 71, 8 pages (forces during a cutaway pickoff)
- Richard Mumford, 2014, Re-thinking the need for a pulley saver or frictionless tie in point.
- Sanyar Kuchenski, 2013, Standing Tension Versus Working Tension (Comparison of the forces in different webbing types when used in similar use in a slackline)
- Schwirsch, Von Martin, Trenkwalder, Pauli, Mersch, Jan, Stopper, Dieter, 2004, Kletterhallen-Studie, Panorama 2004(5):53-55 (Article in German)
- Schwiersch, Von M., Mersch, J., Trenkwalder, P., Stopper, D., 2004, Wovon hang en Kletterfehler ab? Panorama 2004(6):70-72(Article in German)
- Seb Reynes, 2009, Test casse Materiel (Video of dropping a load onto a variety of gear)
- Semmel, Von Chris, Stopper, Dieter, 2003, Vertrauen ist gut, Kontrolle ist besser, Panorama 2003(3):71-73 (Document in German)
- Schubert, Von Pit, 2000, Eisgerate auf dem Prufstand, Panorama 2000(1):51-53 (Document in German, tests on ice axes)
- Singing Rock, 2009, Testing Slack Line 10M 2008 (Video of building and measuring the forces on a slackline)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Breaking-Test: Slackline with Girth-Hitch-System (Video showing the failure of a girth hitched slackline anchor)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 1 - Static Forces & Tensioning (Video showing the forces on a slackline during tensioning and jumping on a slackline)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 2 - Form of the Force-Curve (Video showing the forces on a slackline throughout walking over the line and the shape of the force curve)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 3 - Different Slackline-Lengths (Video showing the forces in a slackline with different lengths of slackline)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 4 - Different Pre-Tension in a 20m-Line (Video showing the forces in a slackline with different initial pre-tensions)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 5 - More than 1 Person on a Slackline (Video showing the force on a slackline with more than one person on the line)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Forces in Slacklines 6 - Jump-Combos (Video showing the force on a slackline during different types of types of jumps)
- SLACKTIVITY Slacklines, 2014, Breaking-Test with a HangOver (Video shows slow pull test results of the HangOver in three configurations)
- Smith, Cedric, Kuhlmeier, Mike, 2016, After the Drop, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016-Link will be updated when the ITRS web page is updated
- Stockton, James, 2016, When do we Know Enough? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016- Link will be updated when papers posted on the ITRS page (His slides are posted here)
- Storey, James, 1971, The Super Locking Link, NSS News 29(5):57-58
- Schubert, Von Pit, 2000, Eisgerate auf dem Prufstand, Panorama 2000(1):51-53 (Document in German, tests on ice axes)
- superbenjaman, 2011, Prueba de rupture de equipo de escalada tirolesa cable tensor polea mosqueton (Slow pull test of highline pulleys)
- Tancrede Melet, 2010, What happens when you cut a highline while somebody is walking it?
- Tancrede Melet, 2010, Test : 60 meters highline, backup fall on dynema rope
- The More You Know, 2013, Wind Dampener Contrast (Video of slacklines rigged in the wind with and without wind dampeners)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Testing
- Vogwell, J., Minguez, Jose, 2007, The safety of rock climbing protection devices under falling loads, Engineering Failure Analysis 14(6):1114-1123 (Abstract only)
Miscellaneous Useful Resources:
- Delaney, Richard, 2015, Rescue Tripod Instability, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015 (Paper also posted here as well as the slides here)
- Duca Giovanni, 2014, Gonvegno CAI CSMT e SAGF - Predazzo 2014. Video Giovanni Duca (Video in Italian)
- Manning, Timothy, Unknown Date, Rescue System Mechanics, Interim Report
- WANE NewsChannel 15, 2014, Inside look at high angle rescue training (Youtube video of a tripod falling over)