Belays
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research on belays and belay devices we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
Published Research:
Unpublished Research:
Videos Showing Drop Tests:
Theory Papers:
Published Research:
- Antonini, Giuseppe, Piazza, Oskar, 2014, Cadere sugli attrezzi: cosa succede? il Soccorso Alpino, April 2014:20-23 (Document in Italian, drop tests with a variety of hardware)
- Bassett, Carroll, 1999, Some Thoughts on Using Rappel racks as Belay Devices, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999 (Reprinted in: Bassett, Carroll, 2001, Some Thoughts on Using Rappel racks as Belay Devices, Nylon Highway 46:6 pages, or in pdf)
- Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, 2005, Hang 'E, High: How Far Can You Trust Your Belay Device? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Reprinted in: Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, 2006. Hang 'Em High: How Far Can You trust Your Belay Device, Nylon Highway 51:21 pages) (Also posted on the Mountain Rescue Association grant archive page here)(Cinch, Jaws, Shunt, Matrix, Tibloc, Ascender, Grigri, Reverso, Pro Traxion, Ropeman, ATC)
- Born, Russ, 2000, Still in Search of a Reliable Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Figure 8, Stitch Plate, Tandem Prusiks, BMS Nanobelay)
- Everhart, John, 2008, Rescue Belay Function Testing, Presented at the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2008 (results not archived on the ITRS web page)
- Dill, John, 1991, Are You Really On Belay? Part I, Nylon Highway 32:1-4 (Reprinted from Response Magazine, Summer 1990) (Tied off rope, Munter Hitch, Sticht Plate, CMI Rescue Belay, Figure 8, Antz, Gibbs Ascender, Rescucender)
- Dill, John, 1991, Are you Really on Belay? Part II, Nylon Highway 32:18-22 (Reprinted from Response Magazine, Fall 1990) (Single Prusiks, Tandem Prusiks)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2007, Rescue Belays: Important Considerations for Long Lowers, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007 (Tandem Prusik Belay, 540 Belay)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2015, Mirrored Systems - Reflections From the Edge, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Hellberg, Florian, Funk, Felix, Schwiersch, Martin, 2013, Auf Die Finger Geschaut, Kletterhallenstudie 2012, Panorama 2013(2):66-69 (Document in German)
- Holan, Jan, Beason, Steve, 2002, Rope Access Equipment Testing: The back-up safety system, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2002 (Petzl Shunt, Petzl Rescucender, PMI Progressor, MIO Rope Grab, PMI Arrestor, Troll/Yates Rocker, Grigri, Petzl I'D)
- Holan, Jan, Beason, Steve, 2003, Rope Access Equipment Testing: Part II, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2003 (Petzl shunt, Rescucender, PMI Progressor, Bibbs Ascender, Prusik loop, MIO Rope Grap, PMI Arestor, Troll/Yates Rocker, Tractel Stopfor D)
- Janotte, Julia, Hellberg, Florian, Humel, Christoph, Schwiersch, Martin, 2016, Ich Hab Dich!? Hletterhallenstudie 2015, Panorama 2016(4):56-59 (Document in German)
- Koprek, Kevin, 2015, Friction Hitches for Technical Rescue - An Open-Ended Approach, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Kovach, Jim, 2004, The Effectiveness of a Bottom Belay on Long Drops, Nylon Highway 49:8 pages (and in pdf here)
- Magdefrau, H., 1991, Die Belastung des menschlichen Korpers beim Sturz in Seil und deren Folgen, Anthropologischer Anzeiger 49(1/2):85-95
- Mauthner, Kirk, 2001, Shock Absorbers in Rope Rescue: Questioning their use, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001 (Tandem Prusiks and 540 Belays)
- Mauthner, Kirk, 2016, Dual Capability of Two Tensioned Rope Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium - Link will be updated when the ITRS web page is updated
- Microys, Helmut, 1977, Climbing Ropes, American Alpine Journal 21(1):130-147
- Padgett, Allen, 1990, False Security, Nylon Highway 30:5 (Spelean Shunt)
- Pendley, Tom, 2010, Belay Test Yields Surprising Results, Informal belay test reveals rescuer's slow reaction time, FireRescue, July 2010
- Popall, Peter, 2002, Belaying A Climber With Dynamic Rope, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2002 (Reverso and ATC)
- Reed, Shaun, 2014, Drop Testing of Rope Access Backup Devices, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014
- Schad, R., 2000, Analysis of climbing accidents, Accident Analysis and Prevention 32:391-396
- Semmel, Von Chris, 2002, Die Handbremse, Gangige Sicherungsgerate I'm Vergleich, DAV Panorama 4/2002:61-62
- Semmel, Von Chris, Stopper, Dieter, 2002, Ein Praxisvergleich von Sicherungsmethoden beim Klettern, Panorama 2002(5):59-61 (Document in German)
- Shrewsburry, Wm, 1998, Belay Research, Speleo Digest 1998:437
- Siri, William, 1955, Tests on Roped Climbing Techniques, American Alpine Journal 9(2):138-141
- Smith, Cedric, Kuhlmeier, Mike, 2016, After the Drop, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016-Link will be updated when ITRS papers are posted online
- Thorne, Reed, 2007, Again..... Are you REALLY on Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007
- Walker, DJ, McCullar, Russell, 2014, Slow Pull Testing of Progress Capture Devices, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014 (Reprinted in: Walker, DJ, McCullar, Russell, 2014, Slow Pull Testing of Progress Capture Devices, Nylon Highway 59: 16 pages) (Munter Hitch)
- Walters, Larry, 2015, The Modern Day Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Walters, Larry, 2016, Belay Testing on the Petzl I'D and the ASAP, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016 - Link will be updated when papers posted on the ITRS webpage
- Wexler, Arnold, 1950, Theory of Belaying, American Alpine Journal 7(4):379-405
Unpublished Research:
- Bedogni, Vittorio, 2004, Analisi numerica delle tecniche di assicurazione "Il Modello Matematico" (Document in Italian)
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Bressan, Giuliano, Melchiorri, Claudio, Signoretti, Gigi, Zanantoni, Carlo, Unknown Date, Le tecniche di assicurrazione in parete
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Bressan, Giuliano, Bressan, Melchiorri, Claudio, Signoretti, Gigi, Zanantoni, Carlo, Unknown Date, Le tecniche di assicurazione in parete
- Bedogni, V., E. Guastalli, Landreani, G., Manes, A., Unknown Date, La catena di assicurazione , misura e verifica delle forze agenti
- Feryok, Zephyr, 2015, Light Anchors, Heavy Loads: Suitability of Dyneema in Rope Rescue Anchors
(Only the talk had relevant data, presented at SARCON 2015, the presentation slides are here) - Hayes, Joel, Zimering, Bob, Unknown Date, The Role of Energy Absorption in Technical Rescue Scenarios, Mountain Rescue Association Grant Archive (They also posted their data in an Excel file here)
- Hundal, Geir, Unknown Date, The Climbing Mythbusters (ATC's and Grigri's)
- Jim Titt, 2014, Edelrid MegaJl Belay Device
- Lazzaro, Torre S., Unknown Date, Appendice A: L'Utilizzo Di Due Mezze Corde
- Lyon Equipment Limited, 2001, Industrial rope access - Investigation into items of personal protective equipment, Contract Research Report 364/2001
- Melchiorri, Claudio, Unknown Date, Tecniche di assicurazione dinamica in arrampicata
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Additional Information: I'D Test Results
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Tests
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Rope Rescue: ASAP and Accompanied Descent
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Rope Rescue: ASAP Performance on a Taut Rope
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Details on Using the ASAP When it is Attached to the Harness Without an Energy Absorber (EN 353-2 Usage)
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Belaying the Leader on Dynamic Rope Using Climbing Techniques
- Richard Delaney, 2014, Members: Backup device on a loaded rope (Requires a subscription to Ropelab to access)
- Stableford, Tyler, 2013, Climb Safe: Belay School - Why Dynamic Matters
- Stableford, Tyler, 2013, Climb Safe: Top Roping is Not So Safe
- Titt, Jim, 2009, Belay Device Theory, Testing and Practice (Also posted here)
- Trihey, Lucas, 2006, Vertical Rescue Training Workshop Report: Equipment Testing
- Unknown Author, 1997, July 97 Drop Tests
- Unknown Author, 2009, Belay Device Friction Test
Videos Showing Drop Tests:
- Artem zaikin, 2014, Динамические тесты (180 кг) страховочного устройства Goblin (статическая веревка 11 мм)
- CAI CSMT, 2014, Alcuni esempi di prove nello studio sulle Soste
- CAI CSMT, 2014, dvd csmt
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione Ventrale con peso 01
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione Ventrale con peso 02
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione Ventrale con peso 03
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione Ventrale con peso 04
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione ventral caduta uomo 01
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Assicurazione ventral caduta uomo 02
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2014, Corso manovre 2014 - Prove di trattenuta di caduta - 1o parte
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2014, Corso manovre 2014 - Prove di trattenuta di caduta - 2o parte
- Camp4Safety, 2013, GOBLIN Fall Arrester - Dynamic test on loaded rope UPDATED
- Camp4Safety, 2013, GOBLIN Rope Fall Arrester - Dynamic test 200kg (Rescue use)
- CBHSNEWS, 2014, CBHS PETZL ANTICHUTE SUR CORDE ASAP ET ASAP LOCK. www.cbhs.fr (video showing the ASAP triggered in a number of scenarios)
- Cергей Веденин, 2015, clifa
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест страховки 1 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест страховки 2 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест страховки 3 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест страховки 4 (Catching a dynamic fall with a münter hitch)
- Christopher Parkin, 2009, Rope access rescue drop tests - Petzl Shunt
- DRR Rescue, 2012, Vortex Drop 2012 (dropping 600 lbs on an Arizona Vortex with tandem prusik belay, MPD's, and prusiks for progress capture)
- FSTC, 2008, Drop Test (slow pulled a prusik, drop tested a gibbs ascender, tandem prusik belay, munter hitch)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, Imbracature a confront.CAI-CSMT (Video Giovanni Duca)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, Prove di assicurazione dinamica - 1994 CAI-CSMT. Video Giovanni Duca.
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, Tecniche di assicurazione.Confronto tra assicurazione classica e ventral CAI - CSMT.
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - La Torre (Video 3o) (Video shows pull and drop tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots, including drop tests on munter hitches)
- hauteurshop, 2012, ASAP Simulation de chute EN353 2 standard (video showing drop tests onto the ASAP)
- Johan Wiid, 2015, Tandem prusik droptest 200kg load
- Luca Capelli, 2013, Torre CAI Padova - Assicurazione ventral con secchiello (Video showing the reaction of a belayer belaying a fall)
- Luca Capelli, 2013, Torre CAI Padova - Assicurazione ventral con secchiello (Video showing the reaction of another belayer catching a load)
- Luca Capelli, 2013, Torre CAI Padova - Assicurazione bilanciata con mezzo barcaiolo (Video showing a belayer catching a load)
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013, ASSICURAZIONE VENTRALE - SIMULAZIONE DI UNA CADUTA (Video showing a person catching the load during a fall while hanging in a belay stance)
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013, ROTTURA/SCIOGLIMENTO NODI SU CORDINI A TRAZIONE LENTA (video shows slow pull tests of a number of ropes/knots)
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013, ASSICURAZIONE CON MEZZE CORDE SFALSATE (Video shows a belayer catching a load on a tube style device)
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009, Torre Padova - Prove assicurazione con mezzo barcaiolo (Video of a drop test of a load onto a munter hitch)
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009, Torre Padova - Prove assicurazione (Video of a drop test of a load onto a munter hitch)
- NZcaver, 2007a, Tandem Prusik catches the load
- NZcaver, 2007b, Tandem Prusik catches the load
- NZcaver, 2007, Rescue 540 belay catches the load
- Pendly, Tom, 2014, How Far Will You Fall? (Youtube video of tandem prusik testing)
- Petzl Professional, 2012, ASAP - Fall simulation EN353-2 standard (Drop testing of the ASAP)
- Redakce Horyinfo, 2012, AlpineUp unnattended
- Richard Delaney, 2012, Tandem prusik belay catching fall during lower
- Richard Delaney, 2016, Rig for lower: Munter + ASAP drop tests
- sambarsport, 2009, pohyblive_zachycovace_sambar.mpg (Petzl ASAP and Singing Rock Locker drop tests)
- scuolavalledelladda, 2011, Prove di trattenuta della caduta (Video showing people catching falling loads with munter hitches)
- Shaunwakelin's channel, 2012, Drop testing back up devices for rope access use (video of drop tests of Shunt, Rock Locker, Height Safety Backup, ASAP, ascender)
- Simon Page, 2012, Petzl ASAP & Absorbica Testing 30/01/2012 AID Rope Access (video showing drop tests of ASAPs and Absorbicas)
- Simon Page, 2012, Petzl Drop Test. wmv (video shows drop tests of Shunts)
- Singing Rock, 2012, Locker Dynamic Test (video of Singing Rock Locker dynamic testing)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, PMR 540 Belay Testing.mov (video shows drop testing with tandem triple wrap prusik belays and 540 belays)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-12.5 PMI 540.avi
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-ID PMI white.avi
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, ITRS 2004 - Drop 14.mpg
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, ITRS 2004 - Drop 8.mpg
- Учебный центр Промышленный альпинизм, 2015, ASAP VS Shunt
Theory Papers:
- Bedogni, Vittorio, 2002, Computer mathematical models in belaying techniques, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Denvir, Mark, 2004, Fall Arrest vs. Belay, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2004
- Goldstone, Richard, 2007, Rope Running In Factor 2 Fall
- Moyer, Tom, 2006, A Simulation of Climbing and Rescue Belays, Presented at the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2006 (Reprinted in: Moyer, Tom, 2007, A Simulation of Climbing and Rescue Belays, Nylon Highway 52:37 pages)
- Popall, Peter, 2002, Belaying with Dynamic Rope
- Rigging for Rescue, Unknown Date, Belay Definitions
- Sheehan, Alan, 2011(?), Theoretical Analysis of Rescue Belay Behaviour, Technical Rescue 37:36-40