Multipoint Anchors
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research on multipoint anchor testing we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
In an effort to make accessing the literature easier, we are providing "at a glance" synopses of the available research in the form of short review papers (bullet points) and synopsis spreadsheets. They will be posted as they are created.
Bullet Point Literature Review
Papers:
Web Pages:
Videos:
Also of Interest:
In an effort to make accessing the literature easier, we are providing "at a glance" synopses of the available research in the form of short review papers (bullet points) and synopsis spreadsheets. They will be posted as they are created.
Bullet Point Literature Review
Papers:
- Bau, di Vellis, 2003, L'asola inglobata, La Rivista, September/October, pg. 84-86
- Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, Scherzinger, Bill, Wilson, Scott, Modisette, David, Miller, Mark, 2005, Multi-point Pre-Equalized Anchoring Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Reprinted in: Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, Scherzinger, Bill, Wilson, Scott, Modisette, David, Miller, Mark, 2006, Multi-point Pre-Equalized Anchoring Systems, Nylon Highway 51:14 pages) (Also posted on the Mountain Rescue Association grant archive page here)
- Chasse, Dick, 2016a, Climbing Anchors and the Evolution of the Quad, Rock, February 2016
- Chasse, Dick, 2016b, Revisiting the Quad for Load Distribution and Stance Management
- Frank, J.A., 2014, CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Revised Fourth Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara, California (Appendix F, p. 327-332)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2012, Tying it all Together: Considerations for equalizing multi-point anchor systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2012
- Long, John, Gaines, Bob, 2013, Climbing Anchors, Falcon Guides, Guilford Connecticut (p. 162-171)
- McKently, John, Parker, Bruce, Smith, Cedric, 2007, A Look at Load-Distributing and Load-Sharing Anchor Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007
- Mortimer, Roger, Owens, Scott, 2014, Breaking Strengths of cordelette anchors tied with overhands versus figure-8s, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014
- Moyer, Tom, Tusting, Paul, Harmston, Chris, 2000, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Reprinted in: Moyer, Tom, 2004, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Nylon Highway 49: 11 pages, and herein pdf)
- Owen, R., Naguran, S., 2004, Self Equalizing Anchors: a Myth? A comparison of the load-distributing properties of symmetrical 2-limb self-equalizing and non-self-equalizing rope rescue anchor systems, Technical Rescue Magazine 37:46-47 (Also posted here)
- Schafer, Keith, 1991, Self-Equalizing Anchor Testing Program, Nylon Highway 32:23-32
- Semmel, Von Chris, Hellberg, Florian, 2009, Stand in der Wand, Panorama 2009(2):74-767 (Document in German)
- Spinelli, Philip, Pylman, David, 2009, The Viability of Multi-point Rescue Anchors Employing Removable Artificial Protection, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2009
Web Pages:
- Balance Community, 2014, Cutting a Main Highline Anchor (Rigged a slackline with a 4 point rope anchor and cut limbs)
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Brassan, Giullano, Malchiorri, Claudio, Zanantoni, Carlo, 2014, Soste: tipologie a confront (Document in Italian)
- Bedogni, V., Bressan, G., Melchiorri, C., Zanantoni, C., Unknown Date, Soste - tipologie di soste in parete a confront, Parte 2: Casi analizzati, considerazioni e proposte (Document in Italian)
- Bedogni, V., Bressan, G., Melchiorri, C., Zanantoni, C., Unknown Date, Soste - tipologie di soste in parete a confront, Parte 2: Considerazioni e proposte (Document in Italian)
- Bedogni, V., Bressan, G., Melchiorri, C., Zanantoni, C., Unknown Date, Soste - tipologie di soste in parete a confront, Parte 2: Considerazioni e proposte (Document in Italian)
- Evans, Thomas, 2016a, Equalization of Some Common Two Point Anchors Holding a Static Load
- Evans, Thomas, 2016b, Peak Fall Arrest Force During Simulated 2-Point Multipoint Anchor Limb Failures
- Feryok, Zephyr, 2015, Light Anchors, Heavy Loads: Suitability of Dyneema in Rope Rescue Anchors
Paper Raw Data Tabulated Results (also presented at SARCON 2015, the presentation slides are here) - Furman, Dave, December 2013, Cordelette for Climbing: What are the Issues?
- harness man, 2014, How strong is that sling? or Are you gonna rap on that!!!???
- Hayes, Joel, Zimering, Bob, Unknown Date, The Role of Energy Absorption in Technical Rescue Scenarios, Mountain Rescue Association Grant Archive (They also posted their data in an Excel file here)
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date, QC Lab: Sling Strength in 3 Anchor Configurations, Hosted by Black Diamond
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Sling Strength In Three Anchor Configurations
- Prattley, Grant, 2014, 3-point Anchors, Over The Edge Rescue
- Sayar Kuchenski, 2013, Highline Shockload Simulation (tested sliding X's as slackline anchors and the forces generated when one limb failed)
Videos:
- Balance Community, 2014, Slack Science - Cut Highline Anchor (Video showing the progressive cutting of multipoint anchor limbs and the response a slackline has to each limb failure)
- Cергей Веденин, 2012, станции из репшнура
- DMM Climbing, 2013, Slings at Anchors (Video of numerous drop tests of knotted nylon and dyneema slings in various configurations)
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, LJ Quad Anchor Pull Test (Youtube video of a quad anchor slow pull test)
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009, Torre Padova -Salta un ancoraggio in sosta dopo volo (Video showing drop test of a sliding X anchor)
- OTE Rescue, 2014, SEA anchors (Youtube video that shows tests of self equalizing anchor testing)
- SARRR, 2015, Slow Pull of a Three Point Equalized 8 mm Accessory Cord Anchor
Also of Interest:
- Giovanni Duca, 2014, Convegno CAI CSMT e SAGF - Predazzo 2014. Video Giovanni Duca (Video in Italian)
- Giovanni Duca, 2014, Convegno CAI CSMT e SAGF - Predazzo 2014. Video Giovanni Duca (Video in Italian)
- Melchiorri, Claudio, Unknown Date, Le soste in alpinismo e in arrampicata
- Shokoples, Cyril, 2008, Anchors in Earnest, Basic Anchor Considerations for Experienced Trip Leaders