Miscellaneous Software
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research that did not fall into any of the other categories that we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
Published Papers:
Unpublished Research:
Videos of Research:
Also of Interest:
Published Papers:
- Chastain, Harry, 1969, Test Report, Speleo Digest 1969:211
- Detter, Andreas, Cowell, Chris, McKeown, Liam, Howard, Paul, 2008, Evaluation of current rigging and dismantling practices used in arboriculture, Health and Safety Executive, Research Report, RR668
- Elron, Robert, 1990, Test of Speed, Webbing Type, and Rappel Device as Variables in Weld Abrasion of Seat Harness Webbing During Rappels, Nylon Highway 30:11-13
- Elron, R.S., 1985, Damage to Seat Harness Webbing During Slow Speed Rappels, NSS News 43(12):385
- Elron, Rob, 1986, Damage to Webbing Due to Rope Contact During Rappels; Initial Test, Nylon Highway 21:5-6, 8
- Fischesser, Mike, 1984, Harness Test Results, NSS News 42(9):268-269
- Fortini, Art, 1997, Abrasion Resistance of Webbing and Cordage, Nylon Highway 42:14-17
- Janotte, Von Julia, Hummel, Christoph, Hellberg, Florian, 2015, Schauen Statt Vertrauen, Gebrauchsdauer von Bandschlingen, Panorama 2015(4):58-61 (Document in German)
- Jeffrey, Darren, Travis McDaniel, Canyoneering Anchors and Basic Rope Systems, AuthorHouse (old webbing slings pulled to failure connected to pitons, pg. 49)
- Kovach, Jim, 1999, 8mm Testing, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Kovach, Jim, 2007, Does Nylon Lose 15% of its Strength When Wet? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2007 (the data file was also posted here)
- Magnussen, Cal, 1974, How Strong is a Stitched Splice in Nylon Webbing? Nylon Highway 3:11-14 (Reprinted in the NSS News 33(5):76-77)
- Moyer, Tom, Tusting, Paul, Harmston, Chris, 2000, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2000 (Reprinted in: Moyer, Tom, 2004, Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord, Nylon Highway 49: 11 pages, and in pdf here) (Flex testing of software)
- Semmel, Von Chris, Stopper, Dieter, 2003, Vertrauen ist gut, Kontrolle ist besser, Panorama 2003(3):71-73 (Document in German)
- Slaven, Isaac, Carlsward, Barbara, 2015, Examination of Failure of Fibers from Synthetic Rope with Foreign Inclusions Using Polarized Light Microscopy, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Sims, Mike, 1970, Rope Tests, Speleo Digest 1970:245
- Smith, Cedric, 2014, Disinfecting Your Soft Goods, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014 (Webbing exposed to hot water, Lysol, 409, Cavicide, Clorox bleach)
- Thrun, Robert, 1977, Sewn Seat Slings... more tests and results, Nylon Highway 7:10-14
- Wright, Landon, Salmon, John, 2016, An Analysis of the Impact of Environmental Conditions on Webbing Strength, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium- Link will be updated when the ITRS page is updated
Unpublished Research:
- 20 kN, 2012, Webbing & threaded highline analysis w/strain gauge indicator
- Balance Community, 2011, All About Slackline Webbing (graphs different webbing types' stretch at different loads)
- Balance Community, 2014, A comparison of Soft Shackle methods
- Balance Community, 2014, Testing Soft Shackles for Weaknesses
- Balance Community, 2014, Various tests with Soft Shackles (Includes testing with wire connected to nuts)
- Bedogni, di Vittorio, Unknown Date, "Preparati" per arrampicata, Il comportamento statico, pp. 92-95
- Bootboy, 2015, Stitched Loop Testing
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, I materiali per l'alpinismo e l'arrampicata === Le norme relative
- Draughon, Baron, 2004, PRM 426 Lab Test - Rescue Equipment - Test to Failure
- Evans, Thomas, 2016, Strength Loss Due To Aging of 1 Inch Tubular Nylon Webbing, SAR^3
- Gear Guy, Unknown Date, When to Replace Climbing Webbing, Rock and Ice, Posted here, here, and here.
- Gesing, Philipp, Bretagne, Lisa, Buckingham, Thomas, 2015, Webbing slippage in low-tension highlines
- Jones, Tom, 2002, Girth hitching slings to the cable on wired nuts
- LaForge, Corey, 2011, To Screamer or Not To Screamer?
- LaForge, Corey, 2015, Climb Safe: To Screamer Or Not To Screamer
- Mammut Sports Group, 2007, Report on the breaking of a girth-hitched sling, with recommendations for usage of connected slings
- Pellizzari, Emanuele, 2012, Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations (Also posted here and data table published here)
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Rope Rescue: ASAP and Accompanied Descent
- Petzl, Unknown Date, The Absorbica I and Y Lanyards are Designed for users Weighing 50 to 130 kg
- Pit Schubert, 2000, Lowering Off and Abseiling - a Huge Difference, 21-22
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date, Draws in a Gym
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date, Worn Belay Loops and Retiring a Harness
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Worn Belay Loops and Retiring a Harness
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date, Climb Safe: The Dangers of Modifying Your Gear
- Powick, Kolin, 2012, Slings and Quickdraws
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Gear Doesn't Last Forever - Slings and Quickdraws
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Draws in a Gym
- Powick, Kolin, 2013, Can a Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Can A Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
- Powick, Kolin, 2013, The Electric Harness Acid Test
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: The Electric Harness Acid Test
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Extending a Cam Sling
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Full Strength Haul Loops
- Richard Delaney, 2014, Members: Old Slings (Requires a subscription to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Shock Packs & Load Limiters (Requires a subscription to Ropelab to access)
- Sayar Kuchenski, 2013, The Importance of Wind Dampeners (Unpublished research report about the forces on a slackline in wind with and without wind dampeners)
- Sheehan, Alan, 2004, Load Testing, NSW SES Vertical Rescue Professional Development Workshop, Wellington NSW, August 14, 2004 (Prusiks, figure 8 and figure 9 knots, old webbing sling, ascenders on a rope, munter hitch, klemheist-webbing and cord, double fisherman's, bowline, prusik made of webbing, girth hitch in webbing, Stevedore's hitch, Portuguese bowline, buntline hitch, clove hitch, Alpine clutch)
- Slacker30, 2014, Sewing Webbing
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Swiftwater Rope Testing - Prussic Loop Strength
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, The Strength of Old Climbing Equipment (Strength of some old quickdraws)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Imbracature a confront: prove comparative sull'uso dell'imbraco basso, complete e combinato
- Volkenburg, Nathan, Busted! Rock and Ice (used and old harnesses)
- Wittman, Myles, 2015, Climbing Science: A Study on Carabiner Testing & Strength, Part 3
Videos of Research:
- Adam Burtle, 2010, Slackline Break Test (Video of pull testing slackline anchor)
- Adam Burtle, 2011, Slackline "mystery webbing" break test (Video of pulling a piece of webbing to failure)
- Adam Burtle, 2012, Does water make slacklines tighter or looser? Let's find out! (An empirical test observing the effects of water on a tensioned slackline)
- Adam Burtle, 2012, Does UV exposure affect slackline strength? (video testing strength of UV exposed webbing)
- Artem zaikin, 2014, Статический тест на разрыв силовой петли страховочной системы CAMP
- Artem zaikin, 2014,Статические тесты на разрыв поврежденной и целостной страховочной оттяжки CAMP
- Avigamo, 2011, Ensayos de traccion II (nudo gaza y nudo decinta)
- Balance Community, 2014, Slack Science - Testing Abrasion Resistance of Soft Shackles (Video showing tests of abrasion resistance of soft shackles)
- Balance Community, 2014, Slack Science - Testing Sharp Edges with Soft Shackles (Video showing pull tests of soft shackles over thin pieces of metal)
- Balance Community, 2014, Slack Science - Testing Soft Shackles by TriLoading (Video shows soft shackle slow pull tests in triloaded configurations)
- Bob Kuykendall, 2008, Strength test of nylon sling girth hitched to cable (video of a nylon sling slow pulled attached to a nut cable)
- CAI CSMT, 2016, Alcuni esempi di prove sui set da ferrata
- CAI CSMT, 2014, dvd csmt
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CSMT - Le "Longe"
- Camp4Safety, 2013, Harness adverse loading during simulated rope access rescue failure
- Cергей Веденин, 2011,Тест петли из дайнемы (test of a dyneema sling)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест оттяжек. (tests of old quick draws)
- danmerrick, 2010, 12-9-2010 018.avi
- DMM Climbing, 2011, Mecca Quickdraw Test (Video of testing an old quickdraw)
- DMM Climbing, 2011, How to Break Nylon and Dyneema Slings (tested dyneema slings with and without knots)
- Eric Campbell, 2009, Runner pull testing (straight pull)
- Giovanni Duca, 2014, Relazione attivita di Bressan, Melchiorri al IX Congresso CNSASA 16/17 Nov.2013
- Guenter Karnutsch, 2011, KLETTERSTEIGBREMSEN TEST
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2008, TECHNICHE E MATERIALI SPELEO ALPINISTICI 2o Parte (Video showing slow pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 1) (Video shows pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione veloce (Video 2o) (Video shows pull tests of variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, 1 base line strength test of a spectra climbing sling. wmv (video shows the slow pull test of a spectra sling)
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, 6mm loop test low def
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, new spectra sling.wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, old nylon sling.MOV
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, old, pure spectra, quick draw sample
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, old spectra sling.wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, readers digest version of multiple weather exposed spectra climbing slings tests.wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, Spectra webbing destruction test.wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, Ultra tape...Spectra-Nylon blend webbing tested..wmv
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, weather sample break test #1
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, weather sample break test #2
- Harness destruction testing, 2011, weather sample break test #3
- Luca Capelli, 2013, Torre CAI Padova - Corda dinamica spezzata durante un test (video of some software drop test)
- Mnmo Npoxoann, 2011, UIAA Mountain Equipment Testing
- Nicola Bertolani, 2009, Torre Padova - salta 1 rinvio con leva aperta dopo volo Fc=1 (Video showing drop test of a quickdraw)
- NWSlackline.org, 2010, Destructive testing
- NWSlackline.org, 2011, Mystery Webbing
- NWSlackline.org, 2012, Does water affect line tension?
- NWSlackline.org, 2012, Does UV exposure affect line strength?
- NZcaver, 2012, Breaking Gear NCRC 2012 (Prusik loop)
- ofvento, 2010, Испытания стропы Dyneema
- ofvento, 2010, Статические испытания петель и оттяжек
- ofvento, 2010, Стропа ЛТК-27 (знаменитая чебоксара)
- Petzl Professional, 2011, Petzl - Laboratory Test Tower [EN-FR]
- Richard Delaney, 2014, SlingBust2014
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Yates 611 Rescue Load Limiters
- Singing Rock, 2008, Testing of sit climbing harness SINGING ROCK
- skylotecTV, 2012, Belastungstest SKYLOTEC Klettersteigsets SKYSAFE und Skyrider
- slackProXde, 2009, 250m longline mit 21kN abschneiden... studie an ankerpunkt (Cutting a loaded slackline with a knife)
- slackProXde, 2009, highspeed-aufnahme (210fps) vom abschnitt einer 250m longline mit 21kN spanning! (Cutting a loaded slackline with a knife)
- slackProXde, 2009, schon mal ne 100m Longline abgeschnitten?BRUTAL!!! (Cutting a loaded slackline with a knife)
- slackProXde, 2009, zerreisstest der neuen 25mm 4,2t longline im slackLock - bruch bei 3,4t
- slackProXde, 2009, zerreisstest der neuen 25mm 4,2t longline im slackLock - bruch bei 3t
- slackProXde, 2009, zerreisstest einer slackline einfach gefadelt im slackHook - bruch bei 2,8t
- slackProXde, 2009, zerreisstest einer slackline doppelt gefadelt im slackHook - bruch bei 2,7t
- slackProXde, 2009, zerreisstest slackline mit 25kN vorbelastung - bruch bei 43,2kN
- superbenjaman, 2011, Prueba de rupture de equipo de escalada tirolesa cable tensor polea mosqueton (Slow pull tests of slings and knotted webbing loops)
- The More You Know, 2008, 1" climbing webbing soaked in sulfuric acid pull tested (video of one inch tubular webbing loop pulled to failure after sulfuric acid)
- The More You Know, 2008, 1" climbing webbing soaked in bleach pull tested (video of one inch tubular webbing loop pulled to failure)
Also of Interest:
- Casassa, G., Chemical and physical characterization of ropes, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Costa, L., Bracco, P., 2002, Synthesis and properties of nylons, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002
- Cotugno, S., 2002, Water diffusion in polyamides,Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Ernst, E., 2002, Polyamide 6, the right raw material for ropes, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Jacobson, K., 2002, Fracture of nylon fibers, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Trossarelli, L., 2002, The History of Nylon, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, A Summary of the Conference on Nylon and Ropes, Turin, March 8/9, 2002
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Making Nylon, The History of Nylon
- Yilmaz, A., 2002, Production of high tenacity nylon for ropes, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002