Rope and Cordage
Below is a series of links to all the publically available research on rope and cordage we have found to date (we exclude papers with analyses and other citations because there are so many!). We have made an attempt to find as much as we could, but it is a work in progress. If you know of any additional testing we are missing, please bring it to our attention (contact us)!
Published Papers:
Unpublished Research:
Videos of Research:
Theory Papers:
Also of Interest:
Abrasion and Flex Fatigue of Non Kernmantle Ropes:
Breaking Strengths of Other Rope Types:
Published Papers:
- Baldwin, Jack, 1967, Equipment Testing, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1967:2-6
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Manes, Andrea, 2011, A constitutive equation for the behavior of a mountaineering rope under stretching during a climber's fall, Procedia Engineering 10:3353-3358
- Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, 2005, Hang 'E, High: How Far Can You Trust Your Belay Device? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2005 (Reprinted in: Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, 2006. Hang 'Em High: How Far Can You trust Your Belay Device, Nylon Highway 51:21 pages) (Also posted on the Mountain Rescue Association grant archive page here)(Cinch, Jaws, Shunt, Matrix, Tibloc, Ascender, Grigri, Reverso, Pro Traxion, Ropeman, ATC)
- Bressan, Giuliano, Signoretti, Gigi, 1997, Corde, Acqua e ghiaccio, La Rivista del Club Alpino Italiano, January and Febbruary 1997, pp 80-84 (wet and icy ropes)
- Chastain, Harry, 1969, Test Report, Speleo Digest 1969:211
- Chitarin, Francesco, 2012, Analisi comparative del comportamento a rottura di corde da arrampicata in prove statiche e dinamiche per lo sviluppo di normative di sicureza, Tesi di Laurea Triennale, Universita degli Studi di Padova, Dipartimento di Ingegneria Industriale, Corso di Laurea in Ingegneria Meccanica (Bachelor's Thesis on properties of climbing ropes dropped over edges)
- Cowlishaw, Mike, 1979, Shock Strengths of some caving rope, Nylon Highway 10:3-4 (Reprinted in Speleo Digest 1979:275-276
- Davison, Don, 1979, Safety & Techniques, NSS News 37(5):109 (Rodent damage to rope)
- Davison, Don, 1979, Safety & Techniques, NSS News 37(3):62-63 (Acid damage to rope)
- Denike, Andrew, 2016, Critical Dilemma: Are Disinfectants Safe to Use on Rescue Ropes? Honors Thesis, School for Engineering of Matter, Transport and Energy, Arizona State University (Abstract Only),
(Reprinted in: Deneike, Andrew, 2016, Critical Dilemma: Are Disinfectants Safe to Use on Rescue Ropes? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016-Link will be updated when the paper is posted on the ITRS web page) - Dunn, Don, 1997, Destructive Test Results Of Old And New Cave Equipment, Speleo Digest 1997:383-384
- Forbes, Mike, 2015, The Sharp End of Edge Testing 2 Tensioned Rope Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Forbes, Mike, Hunt, Matt, 2016, The Impact of Extreme Fire Behavior on Firefighter Escape Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016
- Frank, J.A., 2014, CMC Rope Rescue Manual, Revised Fourth Edition, CMC Rescue Inc., Santa Barbara, California (Appendix E, p. 327-332)
- Gibbs, Mike, 2015, Mirrored Systems - Reflections From the Edge, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- Horn, G., Kurath, 2010, Failure of figefighter escape rope under dynamic loading and elevated temperatures, Dynamic Behaviour of Materials, Volume 1, Part of the series Conference Proceedings of the Society for Experimental Mechanics Series, pp. 353-359
- Horn, Gavin, Timmons, Ernest, Kurath, Peter, 2007, Escape Rope Performance: Working At Elevated Temperatures and Under Dynamic Loads, Fire Engineering 160(7):99-105
- Horn, Gavin, Chaussidon, Julien, Obstalecki, Mark, Martin, Daniel, 2015, Evaluating Fire Service Escape Ropes at Elevated Temperatures and Fire Conditions, Fire Technology 51:153-171
- Kane, Brian, 2009, Your Handsaw is a Lethal Weapon, Arborist News 18(6):46
- Limagne, Remy, 1994, Degagement d'equipier : "le coupe de corde" (1), Groupe d'Etudes Techniques de l'EFS, INFO-EFS no. 26 - 2eme semester 1994, 10 pages
- Lyon Equipment Limited, 2001, Industrial rope access - Investigation into items of personal protective equipment, Contract Research Report 364/2001
- Marc Beverly, 2013, Talon pmi slow pull
- Marc Beverly, 2013, Pmi 10mm classic static nylon
- Martin, D.A., Obstalecki, M., Kurath, P., Horn, G.P., 2014, An Approach for Quantifying Dynamic Properties and Simulated Deployment Loading of Fire Service Escape Rope Systems, Experimental Techniques 40(1):367-379
- Mauthner, Kirk, 2016, Dual Capability of Two Tensioned Rope Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium
- McCullar, Russell, 2015, Two-Tensioned Rope Systems, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- McKently, John, 2013, Don't XXX on Your Rope Revisited, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2013
- McKently, John, Harbach, Leroy, Kuhlmeier, Mike, 2015, Edge Testing of Various Surfaces in the Vertical Plane, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2015
- McKently, John, Kuhlmeier, 2016, Continuation of Edge Testing in the Vertical Plane, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2016
- McKently, John, Parker, Bruce, 2001, How Much Does It Really Matter? Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001
- McKently, John, Parker, Bruce, 2002, Don't XXX On Your Rope, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2002
- McKently, John, Parker, Bruce, Smith, Cedric, 2004, You Asked, We Tested..., Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2004
- McLaren, A.J., 2006, Design and performance of ropes for climbing and sailing, Proceedings of IMechE Vol. 220 Part I.: J. Materials: Design and Applications, Special Issue Paper 1 (also posted here)
- Meredith, Irving, 1960, Climbing Rope Tests, American Alpine Journal 12(1):191-194
- Moyer, Tom, 1999, Qualifying a Rescue Rope, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Myers, Del, Wefer, Fred, 1971, Experiments With Ropes -- II, Speleo Digest 1971:324-326
- Nelson, Dave, 1971, Damage to Blue Water II Rope, NSS News 29(5):59
- Newell, J.R., 1969, A New Rope For Caving, Speleo Digest 1969:214-215
- Obstalecki, M., Chaussidon, J., Kurath, P., Horn, G.P., 2011, Prediction of Dynamic Forces in Fire Service Escape Scenarios, Proceedings of the Society for Experimental Mechanics Series 99, Dynamic Behavior of Materials, Volume 1:179-186
- Padgett, Allen, 1983, Rope Abrasion Testing, NSS News 41(9):234-237
- Parris, George, 1978, Detecting Chemical Damage To Bluewater Rope, Speleo Digest 1978:248-249
- Pavier, Martyn, 1998, Experimental and Theoretical Simulations of Climbing Falls, Sports Engineering 1:79-91
- Pete Knight, 2014, Can you cut rope with a household jet washer?
- Pete Knight, 2014, Thoughts on jet washing caving ropes
- Schubert, Von Pit, 2000, Seilalterung durch Gebrauch I'm Kalk und Elbsandstein, Panorama 2000(3):80-82
- Schubert, Von Pit, 2000, Eisgerate auf dem Prufstand, Teil II, Panorama 2000(6):64-67 (Document in German)
- Signoretti, Gigi, 2001, L'acqua che non ti aspetti, La Rivista del CAI, January and February 2001, pp.74-79 (Wet and frozen ropes)
- Sims, Mike, 1970, Rope Tests, Speleo Digest 1970:245
- Smith, Bruce, 1988. Aging Rope, Study on Rope Aging, Nylon Highway 25:1-6 (Reprinted in Speleo Digest 1988:482-485)
- Smith, Bruce, 1988, Effects of Rope Aging, NSS News 46(4):90-92
- Staples, John, 1970, The Rubber Band Effect: Forces in a Climbing Rope, Speleo Digest 1970:251-252
- Soles, Clyde, 1996, Single-Rope Buyers Guide: Everything you always wanted to know about ropes but didn't know to ask, Nylon Highway 40:13-22 (Reprinted from Rock and Ice Magazine, Vol. 117, No. 68)
- Stoppelli, Tiziano, 1981, Corda vecchia fa buon brodo, Lo Scarpone, August and September 1981
- Tomer, D. W., 1968, Sampson and Ascenders, NSS News 26(12):191
- Unknown Author, 1957, California, Berkeley, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1957:18b
- Unknown Author, 1974, California, Yosemite Valley, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1974:10-12
- Vandeford, A., 1968, Some Rope Tests, Speleo Digest 1968:3-35 (Abstract Only)
- Vogwell, J., Minguez, Jose, 2007, The safety of rock climbing protection devices under falling loads, Engineering Failure Analysis 14(6):1114-1123 (Abstract only)
- Walters, Larry, 2014, Over the Edge, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2014
- Weber, Chuck, Hudson, Steve, 1999, UIAA Dynamic Rope drop testing results with loads greater than 80 kg, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Weber, Chuck, 2001, Fall Factors & Life Safety Ropes: a closer look, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 2001 (Reprinted in: Weber, Chuck, 2002, Fall Factors & Life Safety Ropes: a closer look, Nylon Highway 47: 11 pages)
- Wefer, Fred, 1970, Experiments with Rope I, Speleo Digest 1970:255-257 (Originally published in the Nittany Grotto News 18(5):117-123
- Weiner, Louis, Sheehan, Leo, 1966, Extent and Cause of Deterioration of Nylon Mountain Climbing Rope, Technical Report 66-24-CM, United States Army, Natick Laboratory, Clothing and Organic Materials Division, TS 135
Unpublished Research:
- Banquo, 2010, Testing Marked Ropes to Failure (Sharpie, Rub-a-Dub, and Marvey markers)
- Bateman, Judith, Toomer, Philip, 1998, The Shelf Life Of Static Ropes For Life Rescue Lines
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Manes, Andrea, 2011, A constitutive equation for the behavior of a mountaineering rope under stretching during a climber's fall, International Conference on the Mechanical Behavior of Materials, Lake Como Italy, June 5-9, 2011
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Guastalli, Elio, Unknown Date, Cordini per alpinismo: carattaristiche, problematiche e suggerimenti (1a parte)
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Guastalli, Elio, Unknown Date, Cordini per alpinismo: Caratteristiche, problematiche e suggerimenti (Document in Italian, covers cord strength over objects with a variety of cutting edges)
- Bedogni, Vittorio, Guastalli, Elio, Unknown Date, Cordini per alpinismo: Caratteristiche, problematiche e suggerimenti (Document in Italian, covers cord strength over objects with a variety of diameters)
- Beverly, Marc, Attaway, Stephen, Unknown Date, Measurement of Dynamic Rope System Stiffness in Sequential Failure for Lead Climbing Falls, Mountain Rescue Association Grant Research Archive
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, Catena Assicurazione: cenni, Corde Dinamiche da Alpinismo: norme e caratteristiche costruttive
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, Progressione di conserva su ghiacciaio: Quale corda utilizzare?
- Bressan, Giuliano, Unknown Date, I materiali per l'alpinismo e l'arrampicata === Le norme relative (wet rope, document in Italian)
- Bressan, Giuliano, 2002, Rope Wear in Climbing and in Laboratory, Decay in dynamic performance of ropes due to wear, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (PowerPoint presentation here) (also posted here)
- Bressan, Giuliano, 2001, Usura delle corde in arrampicata (UV damage and abrasion of rope)
- Bressan, Giuliano, Signoretti, Gigi, 2004, Corde sole e acqua in arrampicata e in laboratorio
- Contri, L., Secchi, S., 2002, Snapping of ropes under stress, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Custer, Dave, 2012, Rope Behavior
- Cutler, Scott, Lebaron, Jared, 1992, Performance of Nylon Climbing Ropes
- Douglas, Stuart, 2007, Investigation into the Efectiveness and Durability of Waterproof Coatings and Heat Treatments of Dynamic Climbing Rope, Technical Paper, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow
- Draughon, Baron, 2004, PRM 426 Lab Test - Rescue Equipment - Test to Failure
- Fontenot, Neil, Stenvers, Danielle, Gilmore, Justin, Solomon, Amy, van Berkel, Bertil, Grabandt, Otto, Kong, Deli, 2009, Use of Synthetic Rope in High-Temperature or Fire Environments
- Fronzaglia, William J., 2002, Determination of Dry Coating Effectiveness Against Water Impregnation, An Examination of Various Testing Methods, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (Additional documentation) (also posted here)
- Henkel, O., Unknown Date, Sharp edge testing of mountaineering ropes
- Le Maitre, N., Nel, D., Thilo, M., Burden, C., Jennings, B., Kitney, W., Tolken, G., Tolken, M., Smith, H., Rebel, M-J., Matteyese, R., van der Merwe, D., 2016, Two Tensioned Rope Systems Versus Main and belay in Uncontrolled Horizontal Movements Over an Unprotected Granite Edge (A poster version of the research is available here as well)
- McCartney, A.J., Brook, D., Taylor, M., 2002, The Effect of Heat Glazing on the Strength and Extensibility Properties of Polyamide Climbing Ropes, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002
- Mehew, Bob, Unkown Date, Rope Testing - Some Thoughts
- Mehew, Bob, Unknown Date a, Long Term Rope Test Results
- Mehew, Bob, Rodgers, Roy, Unknown Date b, Dynamic Rope Testing - Developing the Equipment
- Meichiorri, Claudio, Casavola, Patrizio, Zanantoni, Carlo, 2003, Nuove attrezzature per studi sulle corde dinamiche, pp. 76-79
- Petzl, Unknown Date, What Would be the Results of Tests Done With 80 kg on One Strand of a Half Rope?
- Polato, Massimo, Unknown Date, Corde: acqua, sole ed usura (wet and icy rope, sun damage, abrasion)
- Powick, Kolin, Unknown Date, Sharpie for Marking the Middle of a Rope?
- Powick, Kolin, 2010, Dangers of Rope Worn Carabiners
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Dangers of Worn Carabiners
- Powick, Kolin, 2010, How Sketchy is a Sharp-Edged Carabiner?
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: How Sketchy is a Sharp-Edged Carabiner?
- Powick, Kolin, 2011, Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
- Powick, Kolin, 2012, How Strong Are Himalayan Fixed Lines?
- Powick, Kolin, 2015, Climb Safe: How Strong Are Himalayan Fixed Lines?
- Reid, Elaine, 2013, The Effects of Different Types of Damage on the Strength and Extensibility of Climbing Ropes, Technical Paper, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow
- Richard Delaney, 2014, Members: Impact forces during factor one falls (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2014, Members: Rope protection and falls (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: The Capstan Equation (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Richard Delaney, 2015, Members: Rope Stretch (Requires a membership to Ropelab to access)
- Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, 2011, Yellow Spur Rope Failure Investigation
- Schubert, Pit, 2002, Number of Rope Failures amongst German and Austrian Mountaineers and Climbers since 1968, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Signoretti, Gigi, 2001, Wet and Icy Ropes May be Dangerous! (Also posted here)
- Signoretti, G., 2002, The influence of water, ice and sunlight on the dynamic performance of mountaineering ropes, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Smith, Blaine, Unknown Date, A Comparison of Stretch and Forces Between Low- and High-Stretch Ropes During Simulated Crevasse Falls
- Smith, David, 2013, The Strength of Climbing Ropes Loaded over Edges of Varying Radii, Department of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, University of Strathclyde
- Smith, Matthew, 2005, An Assessment of the Effects of Environmental Conditions on the Performance of Dynamic Climbing Ropes, BEng Hons Mechanical Engineering, Department of Mechanical Engineering, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow
- Swaygo, 2009, Pressure Washing Rope (Pressure washed old dirty caving rope)
- Tom, 2011, Polyester vs. Nylon Ropes - Which Absorb More Water?
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Corde Dinamiche Da Alpinismo: Approfondimenti... (wet and icy ropes, UV damage, and abrasion damage due to rappelling, document in Italian)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, IFSI Escape Rope Performance & Design in Fireground Applications
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Swiftwater Rope Testing - Wet and Dry Rope Strength
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Prove Usura Corde Speleo (Page in Italian) (Broke used caving ropes)
- Unknown Author, 2003, Corde Arrampicata Sportiva (Page in Italian)
- Unknown Author, 2010, Le Forze Nella Progressione, Usura Materiali E Attrezzi Fragili (Web page in Italian) (Measured breaking strengths of two ropes found in a cave)
- Vogel, Wolfram, 2002, Safety loss of mountaineering ropes by lowering cycles in toprope climbing, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- Zanantoni, Carlo, Unknown Date, Sharp-edge testing: status and prospects (In pdf here)
Videos of Research:
- avigamo, 2011, Ensayos de traccion I (nudo de gaza y ballestrinque)
- avigamo, 2011, Ensayos de traccion II (nudo gaza y nudo decinta)
- avigamo, 2011, Ensayos de Traccion III (pescador simple bulin)
- Beal, 2010, BEAL Heat Resistant -Raider 11mm - English
- Beal, 2010, BEAL Uni Core Process - Access Rope -English
- Beal, 2010, BEAL Uni Core Process - Spelenium 8.5mm Rope - English
- Beal, 2010, BEAL Uni Core Process - Wall Master Rope - English
- Beal, 2011, BEAL Rope Armour
- Beal, 2012, HOTLINE 11mm - Test of resistance to chemical agents
- Beal, 2013, ACCESS ROPE UNICORE
- Beal, 2013, COBRA 8.6mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, CORDES UNICORE CRASH TEST - fancais
- Beal, 2013, DIABLO 9.8mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, DIABLO 10.2mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, ICE-LINE 8.1mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, JOKER 9.1mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, TIGER 10mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, Top Gun 10.5mm UNICORE CRASH TEST
- Beal, 2013, Unicore Ropes Crash Test
- CAI CSMT, 2014, dvd csmt
- Cai Macerata, 2012, Torre di Padova Prova di caduta con peso Rottura corda
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CAI - Centro Studi Materiali e Tecniche (CSMT)
- CAI Scuola Franco Alletto, 2015, CSMT - Le "Longe"
- Campephilum, 2009, Webbing prusik 1
- Campephilum, 2009, Webbing prusik 2
- Campephilum, 2009, Webbing prusik 3
- Christopher Parkin, 2012, Wire lined rope protector on very sharp 21 passages to failure load 75kg
- corbster74, 2011, Static Rope vs Sharp Edge (Youtube Video of a rope rubbing over different edges)
- cordiste, 2009, Test comparatif de resistance Wall Master Uni Core de Beal (tested cut resistance of different ropes)
- cordiste, 2009, Test comparative de resistance Acces 10,5mm Uni Core de Beal (tested cut resistance of different ropes)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Тест натянутой веревки. (Test of a sharp knife tapped on loaded rope with dramatic results)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011,Статический тест веревки. (slow pull test of a static rope)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Имитация повреждения веревки. (Simulating rope abrasion on a test rig)
- Cергей Веденин, 2011, Динамический тест веревки, (Drop tests using a dynamic rope over an edge)
- DMM Climbing, 2012, Carbiners and Damage to Ropes (Video that shows rope damage due to nicked carabiners)
- Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports, 2015, Testing rope abrasion with Mammut
- Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports, 2015, Mammut Rope Dry Test
- ENSA Chamonix, 2012, Etude scientifique : tests lors d'une chute en crevasse. (Video in French. If anyone is willing to translate this into English for us, please let us know!)
- ENSA Chamonix, 2012, Etude scientifique 2 : Tests lors de chute en pente de glace
- FFME, 2012, Etude scientifique: Chutes en pente de glace
- FFME, 2012, Corde tendue et chute en crevasse
- GerRogers, 2007, Crossing Ropes
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, L'impegno del CAI per la sicurezza. 2006 (CAI- CSMT video Giovanni Duca)
- Giovanni Duca, 2012, Prove Universita di Padova, 2003. CAI - CSMT
- Guenter Karnutsch, 2011, KLETTERSTEIGBREMSEN TEST
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2008, TECNICHE E MATERIALI SPELEO ALPINISTICI 3o parte (Video showing slow pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 1) (Video shows pull tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - Trazione lenta (Video 1 - Parte 2) (Video shows pull test of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots)
- Guglielmo Di Camillo, 2011, Tecnica e Materiali a Padova 2011 - La Torre (Video 3o) (Video shows pull and drop tests of a variety of pieces of equipment and knots, including drop tests on munter hitches)
- Italian TREK Alpinismo, 2012, Materiales y Tecnicas Alpinismo - Pruebas Caidas
- Kong, 2013, Tendon Secure Test (Youtube video showing cutting ropes of different constructions)
- made in mountain, 2015, Que sabes sobre las cuerdas de montana?
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013, ROTTURA/SCIOGLIMENTO NODI SU CORDINI A TRAZIONE LENTA (video shows slow pull tests of a number of ropes/knots)
- Matteo Will Bertolotti, 2013, TENUTA CORDINI A TRAZIONE LENTA (video of slow pull tests of rope and knots in loops of cord)
- Mnmo Npoxoann, 2011, UIAA Mountain Equipment Testing
- Nicholas Le Maitre, 2016, MCSA MSAR systems testing. Main-Belay vs Two Tensioned Rope System
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain 82kg 240fps 1/16 speed & 1000fps 1/66
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2015, Daisy Chain Test 82kg 240fsp 1000fps
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain Test 82kg 240fps 1/8 speed
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain Test 82kg 1000fps 1/33 speed
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain Test 60kg 240fps 1/8 speed
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain Test 60kg 240fps 1/16 speed
- Paul Gerke Hofmeister, 2014, Daisy Chain - blode Idee
- Petzl, Unknown Date, Appendix 3: Detail of Installation on one Rope with Two Ascenders
- Richard Delaney, 2013, Knife cut - loaded rope
- Richard Delaney, 2016, Concrete edge vs Nylon rope
- Richard Tregoweth, 2012, Sterling TriTech versus Silky Zubat
- RockRunTV, 2015, Mammut Rope Treatments & Testing 2015 (EN 1) (Abrasion, water absorption, drop tests (wet and dry), abrasion testing, comparison between rope fiber treatments)
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-0 cm on 30 m.avi
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-high stretch rope.avi
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-ledges, beams.avi
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, F-lo,med-high.avi
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2010, 06 fallversuch ohne Falldampfer Seil mit Stahlseele - 3.00m horiz. Exzentrizitat (Dynamic drop test with a rope rolling over a sharp edge)
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2010, 05 Fallversuch ohne Falldampfer Seil mit Stahlseele - 3.00m horiz. Exzentrizitat (Dynamic drop test with a rope rolling over a sharp edge with a metal core)
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2010, 04 Fallversuch Vordach über Blechdachrand - halt das Seil? (Dynamic drop test with a rope rolling over a sharp edge)
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2010, 03 erster Fallversuch Vordach über Blechdachrand - halt das Seil? (1.5m Exzentrizitat) (Dynamic drop test with a rope rolling over a sharp edge)
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2010, 01 Alles kalter Kaffee? - wenn ja, Kompliment - Absturzrisiko ist fast beherrschbar (Dynamic drop tests of fall arrest systems and components)
- www.absturzrisiko.ch, 2012, AR02 Knoten und Seil (Shows rope on rope abrasion cutting a rope)
- YaleCordage, 2009, Yale Cordage Ultrex vs. XTC Rope Static and Dynamic Test Demonstration
Theory Papers:
- Attaway, Stephen, 1999, The Mechanics of Friction in Rope Rescue, Proceedings of the International Technical Rescue Symposium 1999
- Leech, C.M., 1987, Theory and Numerical Methods for the Modelling of Synthetic Ropes, Communications in Applied Numerical Methods 3:407-413
- Manes, A., 2002, Analysis of a Textile rope with Analytical Models, Nylon and Ropes for Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (also posted here)
- McLaren, A.J., 2006, Design and performance of ropes for climbing and sailing, Proceeings of IMechE Vol. 220, Part L: J. Materials: Design and Applications, Special Issue Paper 1:1-12
- Stovall, Paul, 2008, Determining the Internal Energy Losses and the Dynamic Stiffness Function of Nylon Rope
- Wefer, Fred, 1971, Rope Physics: An Introduction, Speleo Digest 1971:322-323
Also of Interest:
- Beal, M., 2002, Influence of Parameters in the Rope Construction, Nylon and Ropes and Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002
- Faborsky, R., 2002, Present and future of (not old) rope making technologies, Nylon and Ropes and Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002 (Powerpoint presentation here)
- Gilmore, Justin, Stenvers, Danielle, Chau, Rafael, 2008, Some Recent Developments of Rope Technologies - Further Enhancements of High Performance Ropes
- Heins, Dustin, Mozsgai, Greg, Tanzarella, Angelo, Unknown Date, Inspection Criteria for HMPE Rope
- Hennessey, C.M., Pearson, N.J., Plaut, R.H., 2005, Experimental snap loading of synthetic ropes, Shock and Vibration 12:163-175
- Karrer, R., 2002, The perfect rope- Production and use., Nylon and Ropes and Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002
- Kurzbock, E., 2002, Material for mountaineering ropes from the past to new ideas, Nylon and Ropes and Mountaineering and Caving, Club Alpino Italiano, Commissione Materiali e Tecniche, Turin, 8-9 March, 2002
- McCorkle, Eric, Stenvers, Danielle, Chou, Rafael, Unknown Date, Synthetic HMPE fiber Rope Application in Hot Climates
- Wu, Hwai-Chung, 1993, Frictional Constraint of Rope Strands, Journal of The Textile Institute 84(2):199-213
Abrasion and Flex Fatigue of Non Kernmantle Ropes:
- Crump, Terry, Volpenhein, Kris, Sherman, Dennis, Chou, Rafael, 2008, Abrasion and Fibre Fatigue in High Performance Synthetic Ropes for Ship Escort and Berthing
- Heins, Dustin, Mozsgai, Greg, Tanzarella, Angelo, Unknown Date, Inspection Criteria for HMPE Rope
- McCorkle, Eric, Chou, Rafael, Stenvers, Danielle, et al., Unknown Date, Abrasion and Residual Strength of Fiber Tuglines
- Pederson, Mark, Mozsgai, Greg, Stenvers, Danielle, 2011, The Effect of Bending on the Tensile Strength of Statically Loaded Synthetic Ropes
- Roberts, Phil, Smeets, Paul, Stenvers, Danielle, Chou, Rafael, Unknown Date, Dynamic Fatigue of High Performance Synthetic Ropes
- Samson Technical Bulletin, 2013, Abrasion Testing for Mining Working Lines
- Volpenhein, Kris, Chou, Rafael, Unknown Date, Abrasion and Twist Effects on High-Performance Synthetic Ropes for Towing Applications
- Volpenhein, Kris, Collett, Robin, Unknown Date, When Should a Towline Be Retired? Chafe protection and twist and how to recognize their impact
Breaking Strengths of Other Rope Types:
- Starzinger, Evans, 2014, Dyneema/Spectra Lifelines
- Stenvers, Danielle, Roberts, Phil, Chou, Rafael, Unknown Date, Testing of High Strength Synthetic Ropes
- Unknown Author, Unknown Date, Resistenza Alla Rottura Corde Canape (page in Italian) (Tested strength of organic fiber rope 12.5 mm)
- Unknown Author, 2002, Rappel Error, Rope Failed--Inadequate Equipment, Utah, Millcreek Canyon, Accidents in North American Mountaineering 8(2):70-71